A Sacred Site Along the Kumano Kodo
Yunomine-oji is located along the Dainichi-goe, an ancient mountain trail connecting Kumano Hongu Taisha with Yunomine Onsen. The route crosses a forested mountain pass between Oyunohara, the former site of the main sanctuary of Kumano Hongu Taisha, and the hot spring village.
Today, hikers and pilgrims can still follow this historic trail. The path winds through peaceful mountain scenery and quiet cedar forests, creating an atmosphere that feels far removed from the modern world.
As the trail descends toward Yunomine Onsen, the shrine of Yunomine-oji gradually appears among the trees. Although it is relatively small, its simple presence conveys the long history and spiritual significance of the Kumano pilgrimage.
Yunomine-oji in Medieval Records
Yunomine-oji appears in the “Kumano Engi”, a record of Kumano’s religious traditions compiled in 1326 toward the end of the Kamakura period, under the name “Yunomine Doji.” This suggests that the site was established relatively later than some of the other Oji along the Kumano pilgrimage routes.
Over time, however, its importance grew alongside the development of the Kumano pilgrimage and the tradition of hot spring purification, known as yu-kori. Yunomine gradually became one of the most important places for pilgrims preparing themselves spiritually and physically before entering the sacred realm of Kumano.
The Yu-nobori Ritual and Purification
An Ancient Tradition Still Practiced Today
One of the most important traditions associated with Yunomine-oji is the Yu-nobori Shinto Ritual, held every year on April 13 before the annual festival of Kumano Hongu Taisha.
During the ceremony, a child representing a divine presence is dressed in an elaborate red brocade costume. Carrying a small drum and riding on the shoulders of an attendant, the child makes a ceremonial journey toward Yunomine-oji.
The procession then continues across the Dainichi-goe toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. Along the way, participants perform yu-kori, a ritual purification in which they bathe in the hot spring waters.
The ceremony provides a rare glimpse into the ancient pilgrimage traditions of Kumano. It also demonstrates how deeply hot spring bathing and spiritual purification have been connected in the religious culture of this region for centuries.
A Haiku by Kyoshi Takahama
“Today, Yunomine Is in Full Bloom”
A monument commemorating a haiku by the celebrated Japanese poet Kyoshi Takahama can be found within the grounds.
“At Yunomine today, the flowers are in full bloom.”
The poem evokes the peaceful atmosphere of Yunomine in spring, when the mountain village is surrounded by flowers and fresh natural beauty. Walking through the quiet hot spring settlement, visitors can still experience the gentle pace of life that has characterized Yunomine for generations.
Yunomine Onsen: One of Japan’s Ancient Hot Springs
A Hot Spring with Around 1,800 Years of History
Yunomine Onsen is traditionally said to have been discovered approximately 1,800 years ago. It flourished as a place where pilgrims performed hot spring purification before visiting the sacred sites of Kumano.
Emperors, aristocrats, religious pilgrims, and ordinary travelers all made the journey to this remote mountain settlement. After long days of travel along the pilgrimage routes, they could rest in the hot springs while preparing themselves for the spiritual journey ahead.
Much of the area’s traditional atmosphere remains today. Stone-paved paths, wooden buildings, rising steam, and the sound of the surrounding mountain streams create a landscape where visitors can feel the history of the Kumano Kodo in a very tangible way.
Tsuboyu: A UNESCO World Heritage Hot Spring
One of Yunomine Onsen’s most famous attractions is Tsuboyu, a small natural rock bath located beside the river. Only around two or three people can fit inside at one time, but its intimate setting and historic atmosphere make it an unforgettable experience.
The naturally heated water is said to change color several times a day, sometimes appearing milky white or taking on bluish hues. This constantly changing appearance adds to the sense of mystery surrounding the hot spring.
Tsuboyu is particularly significant because it is the only hot spring itself included as part of the UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage route. It remains one of the most popular places to experience the unique combination of pilgrimage and hot spring culture in Kumano.
Experience Hot Spring Culture at the Yunotsutsu
Along the river in the center of Yunomine Onsen is a traditional hot spring outlet known as a yunotsutsu. Hot water reaches temperatures of around 90°C (194°F) and is used by visitors to boil eggs and vegetables.
Making hot spring-boiled eggs is a popular activity. Placing food into the steaming water and waiting patiently while surrounded by clouds of natural steam is a simple but memorable way to experience the local hot spring culture.
Tokoji Temple and the Medicine Buddha
A Temple Associated with Healing
Tokoji Temple, located in the heart of Yunomine Onsen, belongs to the Tendai school of Japanese Buddhism. Its mountain name is Yakuozan, meaning “Mountain of the Medicine King.”
The temple is traditionally counted among the Seven Yakushi Buddhas of Kumano and is closely associated with the famous medieval legend of Oguri Hangan.
According to temple tradition, deposits of minerals from the hot spring naturally accumulated near the source and eventually took the form of Yakushi Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha. The ascetic monk Razan is said to have discovered the image and enshrined it as the temple’s principal deity, known as Yunomine Yakushi.
According to another tradition, hot spring water once emerged from the Buddha’s chest. This is said to have given rise to the name “Yunomune Onsen,” meaning “Hot Spring of the Buddha’s Chest,” which eventually evolved into the present name, Yunomine Onsen.
The Legend of Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime
Yunomine Onsen and Tokoji Temple are closely connected with the famous Japanese legend of Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime.
According to the story, Oguri Hangan suffered a severe illness after being poisoned. With the help of Terute-hime, he traveled toward Kumano and underwent a 100-day hot spring treatment at Yunomine Onsen. After completing the treatment, he is said to have recovered his health.
The story became widely known through medieval setsuwa and sekkyobushi storytelling traditions and has been passed down through generations. Sites associated with the legend, including the Kuruma-zuka, can still be found around the hot spring town, allowing visitors to encounter traces of this fascinating story.
Precious Cultural Treasures at Tokoji
Yunomine Yakushi Nyorai
The temple’s principal image, the Yakushi Nyorai seated statue, is approximately 3 meters tall. It is an extraordinarily unusual Buddhist image said to have formed naturally through the long-term accumulation of mineral deposits from the hot spring.
A small opening can be seen in the statue’s chest. According to tradition, hot spring water once flowed from this opening, further strengthening the connection between the Buddha image and the healing waters of Yunomine.
The Ancient Nagi Tree
Near the entrance to Tokoji stands an ancient nagi tree, believed to be more than 700 years old. The tree is designated as a cultural property by Wakayama Prefecture.
The Japanese word nagi sounds like “nagi,” meaning calm seas, and the tree has consequently been associated with prayers for safe journeys, calm seas, and peaceful lives. Traditionally, nagi leaves were sometimes carried in protective pouches as good-luck charms.
Stone Pagoda and Boat Kannon
Other important cultural treasures include a Hokyo-in Pagoda displaying architectural characteristics of the Kamakura period and a Boat Kannon statue dedicated to the safety and prosperity of fishermen.
These artifacts demonstrate the close relationship between Kumano pilgrimage traditions, maritime beliefs, and everyday life in the region.
A Place of Healing, Faith, and Nature
Yunomine-oji, Tokoji Temple, and Yunomine Onsen form a unique cultural landscape where faith, pilgrimage, hot springs, history, and nature have been intertwined for centuries.
Walking along the Kumano Kodo, bathing in the same hot spring waters that pilgrims have used for generations, and taking in the peaceful mountain scenery can create a powerful sense of connection with the past.
For international travelers, Yunomine offers more than a sightseeing experience. It provides an opportunity to discover a distinctive aspect of Japanese culture in which physical purification, spiritual devotion, healing, and communion with nature are closely connected.
Whether you are hiking the Kumano Kodo, exploring the history of Japanese pilgrimage, or simply looking for a peaceful place to relax, Yunomine is a memorable destination where the ancient spiritual heritage of Kumano continues to live on.