The Legend Behind the Name Tsugizakura
The name Tsugizakura comes from a legendary cherry tree that once stood at this location. The tree was also known as the Hidehira Cherry, and its story is associated with Fujiwara no Hidehira, a powerful lord of the Oshu Fujiwara clan in northern Japan.
According to legend, Hidehira was traveling on a pilgrimage to Kumano with his wife when she gave birth to a baby boy deep in the mountains. Continuing the difficult journey with a newborn was extremely challenging, so the couple is said to have followed a divine message from the Kumano deity and left the infant in a rock shelter near Takijiri-oji before continuing their pilgrimage.
When Hidehira later reached Nonaka, he prayed for the safety of his abandoned child. He then took a branch of cherry wood that he was carrying, pushed it into the ground, and made a heartfelt wish: if his child was still alive and well, the branch would take root and begin to grow.
After completing their pilgrimage to Kumano, Hidehira and his wife returned to the area. According to the legend, they discovered that the cherry branch had taken root and blossomed, while their baby had also survived safely.
Overjoyed by this miracle, Hidehira is said to have expressed his gratitude to the Kumano deity. The story was passed down through generations and eventually became associated with the name Tsugizakura-oji.
The present-day Tsugizakura tree is a later replacement rather than the original legendary tree. Nevertheless, walking the ancient trail while thinking about this story provides a fascinating glimpse into the faith, hopes, and prayers of pilgrims who traveled through Kumano long ago.
A Sacred Shrine Surrounded by Giant Trees
The shrine buildings of Tsugizakura-oji stand quietly on elevated ground at the top of a flight of stone steps. Surrounded by enormous trees, the shrine has an especially solemn and mysterious atmosphere.
The present main sanctuary is believed to date from the late 18th century. It was built in the traditional Kasuga-zukuri style, featuring a single-bay structure with distinctive architectural details. During the Edo period, the shrine was known as Nyakuichi Oji Gongen and was revered as the guardian deity of the Nonaka community.
During the Meiji period, a government policy promoting the consolidation of local shrines resulted in Tsugizakura-oji being temporarily merged with Chikano Shrine. After World War II, however, the shrine was restored to its original location.
Because many of the Oji shrines that once lined the Kumano pilgrimage routes have disappeared or changed dramatically, Tsugizakura-oji is particularly valuable. Its quiet sanctuary and surrounding forest allow visitors to imagine the atmosphere experienced by pilgrims in earlier centuries.
As you climb the stone steps and stand before the shrine, the setting can inspire a powerful sense of connection with the countless travelers who once stopped here to pray during their journeys to Kumano.
The Mysterious Nonaka “One-Sided” Cedars
One of the most remarkable features of Tsugizakura-oji is the group of giant cedar trees known as the Nonaka-no-Ipponsugi, or the “One-Sided Cedars of Nonaka.” The trees are designated as a Wakayama Prefecture Natural Monument.
Several enormous cedars, many hundreds of years old, stand within and around the shrine grounds. Nine of them are particularly famous, and some have trunks more than two to three meters in diameter. Their immense size creates an unforgettable impression.
They are called “one-sided cedars” because their branches extend predominantly in the same direction, toward the southeast. This unusual growth pattern is thought to have resulted from natural conditions such as the terrain, sunlight, and prevailing winds.
Whatever the scientific explanation, the sight of these enormous trees is extraordinary. Walking between them can feel like entering a sacred forest. Sunlight filtering through the branches creates shifting patterns of light and shadow, producing one of the most evocative landscapes along the Kumano Kodo.
A Sacred Forest Protected by Minakata Kumagusu
The survival of the Nonaka cedar grove is closely connected with the efforts of Minakata Kumagusu, the renowned Japanese naturalist and folklorist.
During the Meiji period, the government-led shrine consolidation campaign threatened numerous small shrines and the forests surrounding them. The forest of Tsugizakura-oji was also at risk of being cut down.
Minakata strongly opposed the destruction of shrine forests because of their importance as natural habitats as well as cultural and spiritual landscapes. He devoted considerable effort to preventing the trees around Tsugizakura-oji from being completely destroyed.
Although it was not possible to save the entire forest, the central group of giant cedars survived. The Nonaka-no-Ipponsugi that visitors can see today therefore represents not only the natural heritage of Kumano, but also the legacy of Minakata’s passionate efforts to protect Japan’s sacred forests.
Nonaka-no-Shimizu: One of Japan’s Famous Springs
At the bottom of the stone steps leading to Tsugizakura-oji, beneath a rocky cliff, lies Nonaka-no-Shimizu, a spring recognized as one of the 100 Famous Waters of Japan.
The spring has flowed continuously for generations and was traditionally an important place where pilgrims could stop to refresh themselves and drink water during their journey through the mountains.
Today, clear and cool water still emerges from the spring. Surrounded by moss-covered stones and lush vegetation, the site provides a wonderfully peaceful place to pause during a Kumano Kodo hike.
The gentle sound of flowing water and the shade of the surrounding forest create a relaxing atmosphere, making it easy to understand why this spring has long been cherished by travelers.
Nonaka-no-Shimizu has also played an important role in the daily lives of local residents, having traditionally been used as a source of water for the community. It is therefore not only a historic pilgrimage landmark but also a place deeply connected with the everyday life of the people of Nonaka.
Toganoki Teahouse and the Kumano Kodo Landscape
Just beside Tsugizakura-oji stands the charming Toganoki Teahouse, recognizable by its traditional thatched roof.
The teahouse retains much of the atmosphere of the old Kumano Kodo and is used as a resting place for travelers walking the ancient trail. In autumn, colorful foliage surrounds the building, creating an especially beautiful and nostalgic scene.
A path opposite the teahouse descends toward Nonaka-no-Shimizu. Small traditional inns and guesthouses can also be found in the surrounding area, making Nonaka an important stopping point for travelers following the Nakahechi Route toward Kumano Hongu Taisha.
A Place to Experience the Spirit of the Kumano Kodo
The landscape around Tsugizakura-oji preserves many of the characteristics that make the Kumano Kodo so special. Stone-paved sections of trail, towering cedar trees, moss-covered paths, and peaceful mountain villages combine to create an environment where history and nature exist side by side.
The area also contains monuments commemorating the poetry of cultural figures, including Hattori Ransetsu, a disciple of the famous haiku poet Matsuo Basho, and the celebrated poet Saito Mokichi. Their works reflect the strong impression that the scenery of this region has made on visitors throughout the ages.
Walking the Kumano Kodo is more than simply sightseeing or hiking. For many travelers, it is an opportunity to slow down, reconnect with nature, and reflect on their own lives. Tsugizakura-oji is one of the places along the route where this experience can be felt particularly strongly.
Where Nature, History, and Faith Come Together
Tsugizakura-oji is a special place where the history of Kumano worship, the beauty of nature, and centuries of human prayer come together. The shrine surrounded by giant trees, the famous spring of Nonaka-no-Shimizu, and the legend of the Hidehira Cherry all contribute to its unique character.
When walking the Kumano Kodo, take time to visit Tsugizakura-oji rather than simply passing through. Pause beneath the giant cedars, listen to the sounds of the forest, and follow the path down to the clear waters of Nonaka-no-Shimizu.
In the quiet of the ancient forest, it is possible to sense something of the long history of the Kumano pilgrimage and the hopes and prayers of the countless people who have traveled these mountains for more than a thousand years.