The Kumano Kodo and the Kuju-ku Oji
Throughout the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, numerous small shrines known as the Kuju-ku Oji, or “Ninety-Nine Oji,” were established. The term Oji refers to shrines dedicated to divine offspring or manifestations associated with the Kumano deities.
These shrines served as places where pilgrims could pray for safety, rest during their journey, and perform religious ceremonies. During the Heian and Kamakura periods, when retired emperors, members of the aristocracy, and other pilgrims frequently traveled to Kumano, rituals such as Buddhist chanting and offerings were performed at important Oji shrines.
Among these numerous sacred sites, Hosshinmon Oji held an especially distinguished position. Along with Fujishiro Oji, Kirime Oji, Inabane Oji, and Takijiri Oji, it is traditionally recognized as one of the Five Oji, reflecting its importance within the Kumano pilgrimage tradition.
A Long History Recorded in Ancient Documents
The history of Hosshinmon Oji goes back many centuries. The shrine is mentioned in the Chūyūki, the diary of the court noble Fujiwara no Munetada, in an entry from 1109 during the late Heian period.
Historical tradition holds that a large torii gate once stood here, marking the entrance to the sacred area. Pilgrims are said to have purified themselves before passing through the gate and entering the spiritual realm of Kumano.
The famous poet and court noble Fujiwara no Teika also visited Hosshinmon Oji during his pilgrimage to Kumano in 1201. In his travel record, he described the beauty of the shrine surrounded by autumn foliage and conveyed the solemn atmosphere of the sacred site.
Imagining the shrine surrounded by brilliantly colored maple leaves, with fallen leaves carried across the grounds by the autumn wind, offers a glimpse into the scenery that medieval pilgrims and aristocrats may once have experienced.
The present shrine building was reconstructed in 1990. Although the current structure is relatively modern, the quiet surroundings and remnants of the former shrine site preserve a strong sense of history.
A Popular Trail to Kumano Hongu Taisha
One of the most popular sections of the Kumano Kodo is the approximately 7-kilometer trail from Hosshinmon Oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The route consists largely of gentle downhill sections, making it one of the more accessible parts of the Nakahechi Route for visitors who are new to long-distance pilgrimage walking. It is sometimes described as the “Golden Route” of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi.
Along the way, hikers encounter several historic Oji shrines, including Mizunomi Oji, Fushiogami Oji, and Haraiden Oji. The route passes through peaceful mountain villages, traditional rural landscapes, sections of historic trail, and tea-growing areas.
Mizunomi Oji
Approximately 30 minutes on foot from Hosshinmon Oji is Mizunomi Oji.
A local legend says that the Buddhist monk Kūkai struck the ground with his staff, causing fresh water to spring forth. The site is traditionally associated with providing pilgrims and travelers with water during their journey.
Today, a stone monument marks the site, which remains a quiet and peaceful stopping point along the trail.
Fushiogami Oji
Further along the trail is Fushiogami Oji. According to tradition, pilgrims who had traveled a long and difficult route reached this location and caught their first glimpse of the forest surrounding the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha, known as Ōyunohara.
Overwhelmed by emotion at finally seeing their destination, they are said to have fallen to their knees and bowed in prayer. This story is reflected in the name Fushiogami, which evokes the act of prostrating oneself in worship.
Even today, visitors can see the forested area of Ōyunohara through the trees, creating a powerful connection between the modern traveler and the pilgrims of the past.
Haraiden Oji
Located just before Kumano Hongu Taisha, Haraiden Oji was traditionally a place where pilgrims purified themselves before entering the main shrine precinct.
Here, travelers prepared both body and mind for their final act of worship. Surrounded by quiet woodland, the small Oji shrine provides a peaceful reminder of the depth of the spiritual traditions that shaped the Kumano pilgrimage.
Kumano Hongu Taisha and Ōyunohara
The trail from Hosshinmon Oji eventually leads to Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three major shrines of the Kumano Sanzan.
The grand shrine buildings, with their traditional cypress-bark roofs, create an atmosphere of solemn beauty. For pilgrims completing the route from Hosshinmon Oji, arriving at Kumano Hongu Taisha represents the culmination of a deeply spiritual journey.
Visitors should also make time to explore Ōyunohara, the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Before a devastating flood in the Meiji period, the main shrine stood on this sacred ground.
Today, a gigantic torii gate, one of the largest in Japan, stands at the entrance to Ōyunohara. Surrounded by tall cedar trees, the quiet former shrine site conveys a powerful sense of the ancient spiritual landscape of Kumano.
The Spiritual Experience of Walking the Kumano Kodo
The trail from Hosshinmon Oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha is much more than an ordinary hiking route. It is a path of prayer that has been walked by countless people for more than a thousand years.
The peaceful mountain villages, moss-covered sections of trail, fresh mountain air, birdsong, and deep green forests all contribute to the distinctive atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo.
Walking at a relaxed pace allows visitors to appreciate the landscape while reflecting on the people who traveled this same route centuries ago. The experience can be both physically refreshing and spiritually calming.
Hot Springs Along the Kumano Kodo
The Kumano region is also famous for its traditional hot springs. Near the trail are well-known hot spring destinations including Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, and Wataze Onsen.
After a day of walking, soaking in a natural hot spring provides an ideal way to relax and recover. Tsuboyu at Yunomine Onsen is particularly famous and is recognized as part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.
The combination of pilgrimage, mountain scenery, and hot spring culture makes the Kumano region a uniquely rewarding destination for travelers interested in both nature and traditional Japanese culture.
A Sacred Place Where Nature and History Meet
Hosshinmon Oji Shrine is an important place for understanding the history and spirituality of the Kumano Kodo. Its status as one of the Five Oji, its traditional role as the entrance to the sacred realm of Kumano Hongu, and its connection with centuries of pilgrimage all give the site a special significance.
Standing quietly amid the mountains, the shrine and surrounding trail evoke the prayers and hopes of the countless pilgrims who once traveled toward Kumano Hongu Taisha.
For modern travelers, walking this route offers a chance to experience why Kumano has long been regarded as a “sacred land of rebirth.” The journey from Hosshinmon Oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha brings together nature, history, spirituality, and traditional Japanese culture in one unforgettable experience.