A Shrine Deeply Connected to Kumano Faith
Tokei Shrine is known for enshrining deities invited, or kanjo, from the three major shrines of Kumano: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Because of this connection, it has traditionally been said that worshippers can receive blessings comparable to those obtained by visiting the three major Kumano shrines themselves.
The exact origins of Tokei Shrine are uncertain, and several traditions regarding its foundation have been passed down. According to the shrine’s own tradition, its history began in 419, during the reign of Emperor Ingyo, when the Kumano Gongen deities were invited to the area. Another historical record suggests that a shrine was established here in 684.
Behind the shrine is a small mountain known as Kariho-yama. It is believed that the mountain itself may once have served as a sacred site for ancient rituals. Local legends tell of a divine light appearing from nearby Kamishima Island and descending upon Kariho-yama, suggesting the area’s long connection with nature worship and traditions associated with the dragon deity.
The Story Behind the Name “Tokei”
The unusual name “Tokei” is connected to a famous episode recorded in the medieval Japanese epic The Tale of the Heike. The story takes place during the late 12th century, when Japan was divided by the conflict between the Genji and Heike clans in what became known as the Genpei War.
The Battle of the Roosters
According to tradition, Tanzō, the Kumano Betto, or chief administrator and religious leader of Kumano, was unsure whether the Kumano forces should support the Genji or the Heike. To determine what the gods desired, he is said to have staged a rooster fight in front of the shrine.
A red rooster represented the Heike, while a white rooster represented the Genji. The white rooster won the contest, and Tanzō interpreted this as a divine sign. He consequently chose to support the Genji and is said to have led the Kumano naval forces toward the Battle of Dan-no-ura.
This legendary episode gave rise to names such as “Tori-awase Daigongen” and “Tokei-no-miya,” eventually leading to the shrine’s present name.
Statues of Tanzō and Benkei, the legendary warrior monk Musashibo Benkei, can be found within the shrine grounds. They provide a fascinating connection to the dramatic history and legends of medieval Japan.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 2016, Tokei Shrine was added to the UNESCO World Heritage property “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” Its importance as a historic gateway to the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi and Ohechi pilgrimage routes is an important part of its cultural significance.
During the medieval period, pilgrims traveling to the three major Kumano shrines often passed through Tanabe. Tokei Shrine played an important role as a spiritual gateway for travelers beginning or continuing their pilgrimage into the Kumano region.
The shrine was also an important stop along pilgrimage routes associated with the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, one of Japan’s best-known Buddhist pilgrimage traditions. Even today, walking through the grounds offers visitors a chance to experience the atmosphere of a place shaped by centuries of religious devotion.
A Rare Group of Historic Shrine Buildings
Six Important Cultural Properties
One of Tokei Shrine’s most impressive features is its group of six shrine buildings designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
From east to west, the buildings are arranged in a straight line: the West Sanctuary, Main Sanctuary, Upper Sanctuary, Middle Sanctuary, Lower Sanctuary, and Yaoyorozu Sanctuary. This distinctive arrangement follows architectural traditions associated with Kumano Hongu Taisha and is considered an exceptionally valuable example of shrine architecture.
The buildings also feature several different architectural styles, including Kumano-zukuri, Kasuga-zukuri, Nagare-zukuri, and Irimoya-zukuri. Seeing these forms together in one location provides a rare opportunity to appreciate the diversity of traditional Japanese shrine architecture.
The Main and Upper Sanctuaries
The Main Sanctuary was built in 1661 and follows the distinctive Kumano-zukuri style. Its cypress-bark roof and restrained wooden structure reflect the elegance of traditional Japanese sacred architecture, and the building has been carefully preserved.
The Upper Sanctuary is believed to date from 1658. It is considered a valuable example of shrine architecture from the mid-17th century or earlier that survives in the southern Wakayama region.
The Middle, Lower, and Yaoyorozu Sanctuaries
The Middle Sanctuary and Lower Sanctuary were rebuilt in 1748. Both feature the graceful Nagare-zukuri style, characterized by a flowing roofline.
The relatively small Yaoyorozu Sanctuary features the balanced proportions of Kasuga-zukuri architecture. Together, these buildings provide an important record of the development of shrine architecture in the Kishu region during the early modern period.
A Sacred Precinct Filled with Highlights
A 1,200-Year-Old Camphor Tree
One of the most impressive sights within the shrine grounds is a huge camphor tree designated as a Natural Monument by Tanabe City. The sacred tree near the shrine office is believed to be approximately 1,200 years old.
For generations, local people have regarded the tree as a source of blessings for longevity and good health. Its enormous trunk and broad canopy create a powerful yet peaceful presence, allowing visitors to appreciate the deep connection between nature and religious belief in Japan.
A Shrine Connected with Benkei
Tokei Shrine also has a strong connection with Musashibo Benkei. Tanzō, who appears in the story of the rooster contest, is traditionally regarded as Benkei’s father. A shrine dedicated to Benkei can also be found within the grounds.
Every autumn, the Benkei Festival brings the streets of Tanabe to life. The event features samurai processions, theatrical performances, and other activities inspired by local history and legend, making it one of the city’s best-known cultural events.
Tanabe Festival: A Historic Summer Celebration
More Than 460 Years of Tradition
The Tanabe Festival, the annual grand festival of Tokei Shrine, is one of Wakayama Prefecture’s major traditional festivals. Held every year on July 24 and 25, it is also counted among the three major festivals of Kishu.
During the festival, magnificent decorated floats known as “O-kasa” travel through the streets of Tanabe. The colorful decorations, traditional costumes, and solemn religious ceremonies transform the city into a lively celebration of local heritage.
Traditional Ceremonies and Yabusame
The festival begins with ceremonies such as the procession of the portable shrine and the gathering of the decorated floats. On the main festival day, visitors can see a variety of traditional rituals, including yabusame, the Japanese art of horseback archery.
One especially memorable sight is the young horseback riders dressed in traditional hunting-style garments as they demonstrate this historic ceremony. In the evening, lanterns illuminate the streets, creating an atmospheric scene that captures the traditional character of a Japanese summer festival.
A Gateway to the Kumano Kodo
Tokei Shrine is an excellent starting point for exploring the history and culture of Tanabe and the Kumano Kodo. Several other attractions are located nearby, including the Kumagusu Minakata Memorial Hall, Tanabe Castle Ruins, and Koya-dera Temple, making it possible to explore several historic sites on foot.
The surrounding city center also has numerous restaurants and shops where visitors can enjoy local cuisine and purchase souvenirs. For travelers beginning a journey through the Kumano region, the shrine offers a convenient opportunity to learn about the religious traditions that shaped the area before continuing along the pilgrimage routes.
Where History, Faith, and Culture Meet
Tokei Shrine is much more than a sightseeing destination. It brings together the history of Kumano faith, legends of the Genpei War, UNESCO World Heritage significance, traditional architecture, and local festival culture in one remarkable place.
Walking through the shrine grounds, visitors can sense the passage of centuries and the devotion of generations who have protected this sacred site. The historic sanctuaries, enormous camphor tree, statues connected with Benkei, and legends of the Kumano naval forces each offer a different perspective on Tanabe’s rich heritage.
When visiting Tanabe, take some time to explore Tokei Shrine. Whether you are interested in Japanese history, religious traditions, architecture, folklore, or the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, this historic shrine provides a memorable introduction to the cultural landscape of southern Wakayama.