The Mysterious Yunomine Yakushi
The most remarkable feature of Tokoji is its principal sacred figure, known as Yunomine Yakushi. Unlike an ordinary Buddhist statue carved or sculpted by human hands, this unusual sacred image is traditionally said to have formed naturally over many years from mineral deposits produced by the hot spring water.
The figure is approximately 3 meters high and has a circumference of about 6 meters. Its unusual appearance represents a fascinating fusion of natural forces and religious belief, and it has attracted worshippers for generations.
A small opening can still be seen in the chest area of the sacred figure. According to tradition, hot spring water once emerged from this opening, which is one reason the Yakushi became closely associated with the healing waters of Yunomine.
A Deep Connection with Ancient Hot Spring Healing
Yunomine Onsen is regarded as one of Japan’s oldest hot spring areas. According to local tradition, its discovery dates back to the reign of Emperor Seimu, and the springs have been respected since ancient times for their healing properties.
The site where Tokoji now stands is traditionally regarded as the original source of the hot spring. Another legend tells that during the reign of Emperor Nintoku, an Indian ascetic named Ragyo Shonin was practicing in the Kumano mountains when he discovered an image of Yakushi Nyorai at the hot spring’s source.
According to the story, a sacred spring emerged from an opening in the chest of the figure. The image became known as Yumune Yakushi, and the name is traditionally said to have eventually evolved into the modern place name, Yunomine.
Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha associated with healing and medicine, has consequently been worshipped at Tokoji for centuries. The temple has been especially associated with prayers for relief from headaches and illness, and visitors continue to come here to pray for good health.
The Legend of Oguri Hangan
Another important story associated with Tokoji is the Legend of Oguri Hangan. This medieval tale became widely known through Japanese narrative performing arts and is closely connected with the traditions of the Kumano pilgrimage.
According to the legend, Oguri Hangan was defeated in a conflict in eastern Japan and was later poisoned. He became gravely ill and was reduced to a severely weakened condition. An elderly monk told him that he could be saved by making a pilgrimage to the Kumano Three Grand Shrines.
Oguri then began his difficult journey to Kumano, traveling in a cart pulled by Princess Terute. During the journey, he stopped at a Tokoji Temple in the Inami area of Kishu and prayed to Yakushi Nyorai for 21 days.
On the final day of his prayer, Yakushi Nyorai is said to have appeared to him in a dream and instructed him to undergo a period of healing at Yunomine Onsen in Kumano. Oguri followed the divine guidance and spent 100 days undergoing hot spring treatment. According to the legend, he eventually recovered completely.
The story became closely associated with the Kumano pilgrimage routes, and the road said to have been taken by Oguri became known as the Oguri Kaido. Tokoji preserves an illustrated depiction of Oguri Hangan and Princess Terute, allowing visitors to connect the temple with this fascinating medieval tradition.
Kumano Pilgrimage and Ritual Purification
From the Heian period through the Kamakura period, pilgrimages to the Kumano Sanzan, or Three Grand Shrines of Kumano, became increasingly popular among retired emperors, aristocrats, and other pilgrims.
Yunomine Onsen and Tokoji played an important role in this pilgrimage tradition. Before proceeding to Kumano Hongu Taisha, pilgrims would traditionally perform a ritual purification known as yugori, or purification with hot spring water.
Bathing in the sacred waters was believed to cleanse both body and spirit before entering the sacred area of Kumano. Traditionally, pilgrims would stay overnight at Tokoji before continuing their journey to Kumano Hongu Taisha.
This ancient tradition continues in a different form today. Every year on April 13, the Yunobori Shinto ritual is held at Yunomine as part of the ceremonies preceding the annual festival of Kumano Hongu Taisha. The ritual preserves an important element of the region’s traditional pilgrimage culture.
Historic Cultural Treasures
Tokoji has preserved a number of valuable cultural properties that reflect its long history and close relationship with Kumano religious traditions.
Paintings of Nikko and Gakko Bodhisattvas
The door paintings of Nikko and Gakko Bodhisattvas are designated as a Tangible Cultural Property of Wakayama Prefecture. They are believed to date from the late Muromachi period and are valuable examples of Buddhist painting.
One particularly interesting detail is the depiction of a Yatagarasu, the three-legged sacred crow of Kumano, inside a sun disk. This distinctive image illustrates the strong connection between Tokoji and the religious traditions of Kumano.
The Seated Yakushi Nyorai
The temple’s principal sacred figure, the Seated Yakushi Nyorai, is especially unusual because it is traditionally believed to have formed naturally from mineral deposits associated with the hot spring.
The small opening in its chest remains visible today, preserving the tradition that hot spring water once flowed from this part of the sacred figure.
An Ancient Nagi Tree
Near the entrance to the temple stands a magnificent nagi tree believed to be more than 700 years old. The tree has a circumference of approximately 4 meters and reaches around 20 meters in height. It is designated as a cultural property of Wakayama Prefecture.
Nagi trees have long held a special place in Kumano culture. The Japanese word nagi sounds like nagi, meaning calm seas or peaceful conditions, and the leaves have traditionally been regarded as symbols of safe journeys and peaceful lives.
Even today, some visitors place a nagi leaf inside a protective amulet as a prayer for safety and good fortune.
Hokyoin Pagoda
The Hokyoin pagoda, designated as a cultural property by the local municipality, is a valuable stone monument displaying characteristics of the Kamakura period. It is believed to have originally stood along the Kumano Kodo before being moved to Tokoji.
The monument provides another reminder of the temple’s long-standing connection with the pilgrimage routes of Kumano.
Surviving Fire and Rebuilding
Tokoji has endured several difficulties throughout its history. In 1903, a major fire swept through the Yunomine Onsen area and destroyed the temple buildings.
Remarkably, the sacred Yakushi image survived the fire, while many other Buddhist statues and treasures were successfully evacuated and preserved. This survival was regarded by local worshippers as a remarkable event.
With donations from the temple’s followers, the main hall was rebuilt in 1931. The present temple therefore also represents the determination of the local community to preserve its religious and cultural heritage.
Traditional Loquat Leaf Healing
Tokoji is also associated with an old form of folk healing using loquat leaves. A traditional treatment known as loquat leaf bathing involved bathing in water prepared by boiling loquat leaves.
In earlier times, when modern medical care was not widely available, such treatments were believed to help with skin problems, wounds, and fatigue. Temples such as Tokoji served not only as places of worship but also as places where ordinary people sought relief from illness and hardship.
This tradition provides an interesting glimpse into the connection between Buddhist healing practices, hot spring culture, and everyday life in historical Japan.
Yunomine Oji and the Kumano Kodo
Behind Tokoji is Yunomine Oji, one of the many Oji shrines found along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. It is part of the historic Kumano Pilgrimage Routes, which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage property known as the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
By the late medieval period, the practice of purifying oneself in the waters of Yunomine Onsen before traveling to Kumano Hongu had become firmly established. Yunomine Oji consequently became an important spiritual site along the pilgrimage route.
Today, visitors can walk uphill from the hot spring town into a quiet forest where the small shrine stands. The peaceful surroundings offer a sense of the sacred atmosphere that has characterized this area for centuries.
Where Nature, Healing, and Faith Come Together
Tokoji Temple is a unique place where nature, religious belief, healing traditions, and pilgrimage history come together. The mysterious natural form of the Yunomine Yakushi, the ancient nagi tree, historic Buddhist treasures, and the nearby Yunomine Onsen all tell stories that have been passed down for generations.
Walking through the quiet hot spring town and visiting Tokoji provides a chance to experience a different side of Japanese culture—one in which nature itself can become sacred, hot springs can be part of spiritual purification, and journeys can become acts of prayer.
When exploring the Kumano Kodo, take time to visit Tokoji and Yunomine Oji as well as the historic hot spring district. Together, these sites offer a deeper understanding of the spiritual traditions and enduring cultural landscape of Kumano.