A Resting Place for Kumano Pilgrims
A Tradition of Welcoming Travelers
The Nonaka area of Nakahechi has been an important stopping point for travelers making their way toward Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine since ancient times. During the Edo period, numerous pilgrims traveled through this area as part of their journeys to Kumano.
After walking long distances through the mountains, travelers could stop here to rest and regain their strength. Today, Toganoki Chaya continues this tradition as a welcoming place for people exploring the Kumano Kodo.
Since 2016, local residents have played a central role in operating the tea house, helping preserve its connection with the surrounding community and the traditions of the historic pilgrimage route.
The Meaning Behind the Name “Toganoki”
The word “Toga” in the name Toganoki is said to be a local dialect term for Tsuga, a species of coniferous tree found in Japan.
The simple name reflects the close relationship between the forest, the pilgrimage route, and everyday life in this mountain community. A visit to Toganoki Chaya offers travelers an opportunity to experience not only the history of the Kumano Kodo, but also the warm and unpretentious character of the local area.
Enjoy Traditional Local Food by Reservation
Toganoki Chaya is more than just a place to take a break. It can also be used as a traditional guesthouse, allowing visitors to experience the local lifestyle more closely.
With advance reservations, guests can enjoy traditional meals such as an ochagayu set meal and a medicinal herbal cuisine set meal. Ochagayu is a type of rice porridge prepared with tea, and it is a simple, comforting dish that reflects the food culture of the Kumano mountains.
Enjoying a warm local meal while surrounded by the atmosphere of an ancient pilgrimage route can turn a simple lunch break into a memorable part of your Kumano journey.
Tsugizakura-oji and the Giant Ippon-sugi Cedars
Tsugizakura-oji
Just a short distance from Toganoki Chaya is Tsugizakura-oji, one of the historic Oji sites associated with the Kumano Kodo.
Oji are sacred sites located along the pilgrimage routes to Kumano. Tsugizakura-oji has long been revered as the guardian shrine of the Nonaka area. After climbing a flight of stone steps, visitors reach the quiet shrine grounds surrounded by the forest.
Nonaka no Ippon-sugi
The shrine grounds are home to the remarkable Nonaka no Ippon-sugi, a group of enormous cedar trees designated as a Natural Monument by Wakayama Prefecture.
Some of these trees are believed to be more than 800 years old. Their massive trunks and unusual branches extending predominantly in the same direction create an almost otherworldly landscape.
Standing beneath these ancient cedars, surrounded by the deep forest of the Kumano Kodo, visitors can experience the mysterious atmosphere created by the combination of nature and centuries-old religious traditions.
Nonaka no Shimizu and Autumn Colors
A Famous Spring Along the Pilgrimage Route
Near Tsugizakura-oji is Nonaka no Shimizu, a natural spring selected as one of the 100 Famous Waters of Japan.
The spring has reportedly continued to flow for centuries without drying up. For generations, it provided precious drinking water to pilgrims traveling along the Kumano Kodo, helping weary travelers refresh themselves during their long mountain journeys.
The spring remains an important part of the local landscape and is well worth visiting together with Toganoki Chaya and Tsugizakura-oji.
A Beautiful Autumn Landscape
In autumn, the trees surrounding Toganoki Chaya turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and yellow. The colorful foliage creates a beautiful contrast with the traditional thatched roof of the tea house.
The combination of the historic pilgrimage trail, traditional architecture, ancient cedar trees, and seasonal scenery creates a uniquely atmospheric landscape. For photographers and travelers seeking an authentic view of rural Japan, the area around Toganoki Chaya is especially appealing during the autumn season.
A Perfect Rest Stop for Exploring the Kumano Kodo
Toganoki Chaya is an ideal place to pause while walking the historic Kumano Kodo. Several important attractions, including Tsugizakura-oji, Nonaka no Ippon-sugi, and Nonaka no Shimizu, are located close together, allowing visitors to experience history, nature, and spirituality in one area.
The traditional thatched-roof building preserves the atmosphere of an earlier era and provides a glimpse into the kind of places where travelers once rested during their pilgrimage to Kumano.
When exploring the Kumano Kodo, take some time to stop at Toganoki Chaya. Surrounded by ancient forests and historic pilgrimage sites, this peaceful tea house offers a chance to slow down, enjoy local hospitality, and experience the timeless atmosphere of one of Japan’s most remarkable pilgrimage routes.