A Unique Statue Riding Both a Cow and a Horse
The most distinctive feature of the Gyuba Doji is its unusual form. A small monk-like figure wearing a hood is depicted riding both a cow and a horse at the same time. This rare composition gives the statue a gentle and friendly appearance.
After walking through the mountains for hours, encountering this peaceful little figure can provide travelers with a surprising sense of comfort. Its calm expression seems almost like that of a companion welcoming pilgrims along their journey.
The statue is believed to have been created during the Meiji period (1868–1912). According to local tradition, it represents Emperor Kazan, a former emperor who traveled to Kumano during the Heian period (794–1185).
The statue therefore serves as a quiet reminder of the countless pilgrims who once crossed the difficult mountain paths on their way to the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano.
The Legend of Emperor Kazan and Hashiori Pass
Hashiori Pass is associated with a famous legend concerning Emperor Kazan.
According to tradition, Emperor Kazan was persuaded to abdicate the throne and enter religious life while still young. After leaving the imperial court, he traveled away from the capital and eventually headed toward Kumano in search of spiritual salvation and peace.
During his difficult journey through the mountains of the Nakahechi route, he stopped at this pass to rest and eat. Because he had no chopsticks, he reportedly broke a stem of kaya grass growing nearby and used it as a makeshift pair of chopsticks.
As he did so, drops of moisture fell from the grass. Seeing the droplets, Emperor Kazan is said to have asked his attendant whether they were “blood or dew.”
This story is traditionally associated with the names of both Hashiori Pass and the village of Chikatsuyu below it. The name Chikatsuyu can be interpreted in connection with the phrase “nearby dew,” giving the landscape an evocative link to the old legend.
Walking through the quiet forest today, visitors may find it easy to imagine these ancient stories unfolding along the same mountain paths centuries ago. This sense of history and legend is one of the special attractions of the Kumano Kodo.
A Kamakura-Period Stone Pagoda
Behind the Gyuba Doji statue stands the Chikatsuyu Hoto, a Hokkyo-in Pagoda, which has been designated as a cultural property by Wakayama Prefecture. The stone monument is believed to date from the Kamakura period (1185–1333).
Local tradition connects the pagoda with the legend that Emperor Kazan buried Buddhist scriptures in this area. Together, the weathered stone pagoda, Gyuba Doji statue, and surrounding cedar forest create a solemn atmosphere closely associated with the religious history of the Kumano pilgrimage.
The Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route was one of the principal pilgrimage routes connecting the Kyoto and Osaka areas with the sacred sites of Kumano. The route from Tanabe deep into the mountains toward Kumano Hongu Taisha was traveled by emperors, aristocrats, monks, and ordinary people alike.
Today, the Kumano Kodo is part of the UNESCO World Heritage property “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range” and attracts travelers from around the world. Among its many historic landmarks, the Gyuba Doji statue is one of the most popular highlights.
The Natural Beauty of Nakahechi
The area around Hashiori Pass is surrounded by beautiful cedar forests, clear streams, and changing seasonal scenery.
In spring, fresh green leaves brighten the forest. Summer brings cool shade beneath the trees, offering welcome relief for hikers. In autumn, colorful foliage transforms the mountains, while winter brings a quiet, almost mystical atmosphere to the trail.
The appeal of the Kumano Kodo goes far beyond hiking. Walking along ancient stone paths, passing moss-covered stones and old trail markers, and listening to the sounds of the forest allows travelers to experience nature, history, and spiritual tradition at the same time.
For many visitors, walking the trail can feel like stepping into another era and following in the footsteps of pilgrims who traveled through these mountains hundreds of years ago.
Walking Down to Chikatsuyu Village
A short walk from the Gyuba Doji statue brings visitors to Chikatsuyu, a historic settlement that once flourished as an important stopping point along the Nakahechi pilgrimage route.
Located roughly halfway between Tanabe and Kumano Hongu, Chikatsuyu served as a significant resting place for pilgrims traveling toward the sacred sites of Kumano.
Today, the village retains a peaceful rural atmosphere, with traditional houses, small cafés, and guesthouses. Taking a leisurely walk through the settlement offers visitors a chance to experience the atmosphere of a traditional mountain village while enjoying the slower pace of life in the Kumano region.
Chikatsuyu-oji and Kumano Religious Tradition
Chikatsuyu is also home to Chikatsuyu-oji, one of the historic Kumano Kodo Oji shrines. The Oji were important subsidiary sacred sites along the pilgrimage routes, where travelers stopped to pray for safety and spiritual protection.
In the past, numerous inns are believed to have stood around Chikatsuyu, serving the large numbers of pilgrims passing through the settlement. The nearby Hiki River was also traditionally associated with misogi, a ritual purification practice in which pilgrims purified themselves with water before continuing their journey.
The 2008 Damage and Restoration of the Statue
The Gyuba Doji statue was carefully preserved for many years, but in 2008, it was seriously damaged when someone deliberately destroyed its head.
Local residents and officials searched extensively for the missing head, but it was never recovered. A sculptor subsequently recreated the damaged portion, carefully restoring the statue to the form visitors see today.
The incident also highlighted how deeply the statue is valued by the local community. Its restoration was an important expression of the desire to protect the cultural heritage of the Kumano Kodo for future generations.
A Popular Stop for Kumano Kodo Hikers
The route to the Gyuba Doji statue is popular with both experienced hikers and first-time Kumano Kodo walkers. One convenient option is to begin near Roadside Station Kumano Kodo Nakahechi and follow the trail toward the statue.
As the trail winds through tall cedar trees, hikers encounter moss-covered stones, historic paths, and peaceful forest scenery. The sounds of modern life gradually disappear, creating a calm environment where visitors can concentrate on the journey itself.
When the Gyuba Doji statue finally appears among the trees, it can feel like a quiet greeting from the past. The small stone figure provides a memorable moment along the pilgrimage route.
Travelers who continue to Chikatsuyu can also experience the local food and culture of the region. Sampling simple local specialties and traditional sweets such as kusa-mochi is a pleasant way to finish a walk through the historic landscape.
A Small Guardian of the Ancient Pilgrimage Route
The Gyuba Doji at Hashiori Pass may be a small stone statue, but it represents the long history, religious traditions, legends, and human journeys of the Kumano Kodo.
Standing quietly beneath the forest canopy, the statue continues to welcome and watch over modern travelers just as it has become associated with the pilgrims of the past.
When walking the Kumano Kodo, take a moment to stop beside this unusual little statue. Look closely at its distinctive form, listen to the sounds of the surrounding forest, and imagine the pilgrims who once walked these same mountains in search of healing, faith, and renewal.
The encounter with Gyuba Doji is a reminder that the Kumano Kodo is not simply an ancient hiking trail. It is a living cultural landscape where nature, history, spirituality, and the stories of travelers come together.