The History and Legends of Ryujin Onsen
The history of Ryujin Onsen is said to date back approximately 1,300 years. According to local legend, the ascetic En no Gyoja, traditionally regarded as an important figure in the origins of Shugendo, discovered steam rising from the ground while traveling through the mountains. When he struck the ground with his Buddhist ritual staff, a hot spring is said to have emerged.
Another tradition tells that Kobo Daishi Kukai, the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism, received a revelation from the dragon deity Nanda Ryuo and established a bathing place here. This legend is reflected in the name “Ryujin,” which can be translated as “Dragon Deity.”
During the Edo period (1603–1868), Tokugawa Yorinobu, the first lord of the Kishu Tokugawa domain, became a great admirer of the hot springs and helped establish Ryujin as a protected retreat for therapeutic bathing. Guest facilities and bathing areas were developed, including special accommodations for the domain lord.
Two historic inns, Kamigoten and Shimogoten, continue to preserve the atmosphere and traditions of that period. The road once used by successive domain lords to travel between Wakayama Castle and Ryujin Onsen became known as the Ryujin Kaido, or Ryujin Road.
Today, the journey through the mountains still evokes the history of traditional Japanese hot spring culture. Reaching the resort via the Koya-Ryujin Skyline, visitors encounter a quiet mountain landscape that can feel almost like a hidden retreat.
One of Japan’s Three Famous Hot Springs for Beautiful Skin
The hot spring water at Ryujin Onsen is classified as a sodium bicarbonate spring, also known as a baking-soda spring. The water is clear and has a gentle texture that is traditionally appreciated for its cleansing and smoothing effect on the skin.
After bathing, the skin can feel soft and smooth, which has contributed to Ryujin’s long-standing reputation as a “beauty hot spring.” The water is also valued as a relaxing way to warm the body and recover from the fatigue of travel.
Hot Spring Characteristics
Water type: Sodium bicarbonate spring
Source temperature: Approximately 48°C
Traditional Uses of the Hot Spring
Bathing has traditionally been associated with relief from conditions such as chronic skin problems, neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, stiff shoulders, chronic digestive disorders, sensitivity to cold, cuts, and burns.
Historically, the spring water was also used as drinking water for certain digestive and metabolic conditions. Visitors should follow current local guidance regarding whether the water is suitable for drinking, as not all hot springs are intended for internal use.
Ryujin Onsen Motoyu: A Traditional Public Bath
One of the best ways to experience Ryujin Onsen is to visit Ryujin Onsen Motoyu, the area’s public bathhouse.
The facility offers a traditional hot spring experience and is enjoyed by both local residents and visitors. Its bathing areas include spacious hinoki cypress baths and rock baths, while large windows provide views of the beautiful Hidaka River valley.
In the outdoor bath, visitors can relax while listening to the sound of the river flowing nearby. On clear nights, the dark mountain sky can reveal a spectacular view of the stars, creating a particularly peaceful experience.
The hot spring water is regularly replaced, helping maintain a clean and refreshing bathing environment. For travelers exploring southern Wakayama, Motoyu is a convenient place to enjoy a traditional Japanese hot spring experience during a day trip or scenic drive.
Historic Inns: Kamigoten and Shimogoten
Kamigoten: A Historic Inn with Samurai-Era Connections
Kamigoten is one of the most historic inns in Ryujin Onsen. It is said to have been built in 1657 for Tokugawa Yorinobu as accommodation for his visits to the hot springs, and the building still preserves many traces of its long history.
One of its highlights is the “Onari-no-Ma,” a special room where the domain lord stayed. The traditional wooden architecture and dignified entrance create an atmosphere that evokes the world of the Edo period.
In 1999, the building was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, recognizing its architectural and historical value. Staying here offers visitors an opportunity to experience both a traditional Japanese inn and an important piece of local history.
Shimogoten: Famous for Its Tatami-Floored Bath
Shimogoten is another historic inn closely associated with Ryujin Onsen. It is said to have been established in 1639 and was originally used as accommodation for retainers of the Kishu domain.
The inn is particularly famous for its unusual tatami-floored bathing area. Tatami mats are used around the dressing and washing areas, creating a soft and comfortable surface underfoot and making the facility especially welcoming for older visitors.
The hinoki bath and open-air bath overlook the clear waters of the Hidaka River. Depending on the season, guests can enjoy fresh green foliage, brilliant autumn colors, or snowy mountain scenery while bathing.
The inn also serves traditional dishes featuring mountain vegetables, river fish, and locally sourced ingredients. Antique objects, calligraphy, and artworks passed down through the inn’s history are displayed inside, giving the property the atmosphere of a small living museum.
Driving the Koya-Ryujin Skyline
A visit to Ryujin Onsen can be combined with a scenic drive along the Koya-Ryujin Skyline, a mountain road connecting Mount Koya with the Ryujin area.
The road passes through the spectacular landscapes of the Kii Mountains and offers a different view in every season. Spring brings fresh green leaves, summer is filled with deep forest greenery, autumn covers the mountains in brilliant colors, and winter can transform the landscape into a snowy mountain world.
During the autumn foliage season in particular, the mountains become a spectacular patchwork of red, orange, and yellow. Popular viewpoints along the route include Mount Gomadan and the Gomadan Sky Tower, where visitors can enjoy wide views across the Kii Mountain Range.
Nature Attractions Around Ryujin Onsen
Mount Gomadan
Mount Gomadan reaches approximately 1,372 meters and is known as the highest mountain in Wakayama Prefecture. The summit area provides expansive views of the surrounding Kii Mountains and is popular for hiking and trekking.
Komoritani Gorge
Komoritani Gorge is known for its clear mountain stream and beautiful natural forest. During the summer, the cool waters and shaded woodland make it a refreshing destination for escaping the heat.
Walking beside the stream while listening to the sound of flowing water is a peaceful way to experience the natural environment of the Ryujin mountains.
Emonkamon Falls and Shiratsubo-Akatsubo Falls
The mountains around Ryujin are dotted with atmospheric waterfalls, making waterfall sightseeing another enjoyable activity. Surrounded by dense forest, these waterfalls offer impressive scenery and a refreshing atmosphere away from the main tourist routes.
Fishing and Outdoor Adventures
Ryujin is also an excellent destination for travelers who enjoy outdoor activities. The Hidaka River is known for ayu sweetfish and amago trout fishing, attracting anglers from across Japan.
The surrounding mountains are also suitable for hiking, trekking, and forest-based wellness activities. Walking through the forests provides an opportunity to slow down, breathe fresh mountain air, and reconnect with nature.
Snow can fall in the higher mountain areas during winter, creating opportunities for activities such as snowshoe hiking. This gives visitors a different impression of Wakayama, which is often associated with its relatively mild coastal climate.
Local Cuisine to Enjoy with the Hot Springs
Another attraction of Ryujin is its traditional mountain cuisine. Restaurants and inns serve dishes made with ingredients from the surrounding forests and rivers.
Typical specialties include ayu and amago river fish, seasonal mountain vegetables, and locally grown produce. River fish grilled over charcoal are particularly enjoyable, with a fragrant aroma that complements their delicate flavor.
During the colder months, hearty dishes such as botan-nabe wild boar hot pot and locally sourced beef are popular choices for warming up after a day in the mountains.
Ryujin Through the Four Seasons
Spring
Spring brings fresh green leaves to the mountains, making it an excellent season for forest walks, hiking, and outdoor exploration. The clean mountain air and flowing streams create a refreshing atmosphere.
Summer
The Hidaka River becomes a major attraction in summer, with opportunities for river fishing and enjoying the cool mountain environment. Ryujin is also appreciated as a summer retreat because its mountain setting can feel pleasantly cool compared with urban areas.
Autumn
Autumn is one of the most beautiful seasons in Ryujin. The mountains along the Koya-Ryujin Skyline are covered in brilliant red and yellow foliage, attracting many visitors seeking spectacular seasonal scenery.
Winter
Snow can transform the mountain landscape into a quiet winter wonderland. Relaxing in an outdoor hot spring while looking at snowy scenery is one of the most memorable experiences Ryujin can offer during the colder months.
Ryujin Onsen in Literature and Popular Culture
Ryujin Onsen has long attracted writers and artists. The resort appears in Kaizan Nakazato’s famous novel Daibosatsu Toge, in which the protagonist, Ryunosuke Tsukue, visits a hot spring seeking relief for his eyes.
The remote mountain setting, historic atmosphere, and mysterious character of the hot spring have continued to inspire visitors and creators alike.
How to Reach Ryujin Onsen
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, visitors can take a Ryujin Bus to the Ryujin Onsen bus stop. The journey takes approximately 80 minutes.
Ryujin Onsen can also be reached from the Mount Koya area via the Koya-Ryujin Skyline. Travelers who enjoy driving can make the journey part of their sightseeing experience, taking in the spectacular mountain scenery along the way.
A Historic Hot Spring Retreat for Body and Mind
Ryujin Onsen is much more than a famous hot spring for beautiful skin. Its appeal comes from the combination of soothing hot spring water, centuries of history, traditional Japanese inns, mountain landscapes, and the peaceful atmosphere of the Kii Peninsula.
Soaking in a hot spring while listening to a mountain stream, walking through an ancient forest, enjoying traditional cuisine, or simply taking in the changing colors of the mountains can provide a welcome escape from everyday life.
For international travelers exploring Wakayama, Ryujin Onsen offers an opportunity to experience a quieter and more traditional side of Japan. A visit here is ideal for anyone looking for relaxation, nature, Japanese hot spring culture, and a deeper connection with the history of the Kii Mountains.