A Shrine Dedicated to Izanami-no-Mikoto
The principal deity enshrined at Ubuta Shrine is Izanami-no-Mikoto, one of the most important female deities in Japanese mythology. Together with her husband, Izanagi-no-Mikoto, she is said to have created the Japanese islands and given birth to many of the gods of Japan.
Izanami is therefore often described as a mother goddess associated with creation and life. According to Japanese mythology, however, she died after giving birth to Kagutsuchi, the deity of fire, after suffering severe burns.
For this reason, Izanami came to symbolize not only the power to give birth and create life, but also the themes of death, transformation, and rebirth.
The Peaceful Soul and the Powerful Soul
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, Izanami’s spiritual presence is understood in two forms. Her Nigimitama, representing her peaceful and benevolent spirit, is associated with the First Shrine of Kumano Hongu Taisha. At Ubuta Shrine, her Aramitama, representing a more powerful and dynamic aspect of her spirit, is worshipped.
Because of this connection, Ubuta Shrine is regarded as a place where visitors can pray for fertility, safe childbirth, good relationships, renewal, and new beginnings. The shrine is meaningful not only to those wishing for a child but also to people hoping to begin a new chapter in their lives.
Sacred Power in a Small Shrine
At the center of the small grounds stands a simple stone shrine resting on a stone platform. Unlike the elaborate buildings found at some of Japan’s major Shinto shrines, Ubuta Shrine has little decorative ornamentation.
This simplicity gives the shrine a particularly serene character. Rather than overwhelming visitors with monumental architecture, the site creates a sense of ancient worship closely connected with nature.
The torii gate faces in the direction of Oyunohara, the former sacred site of Kumano Hongu Taisha. This orientation further emphasizes the shrine’s close spiritual relationship with the wider sacred landscape of Kumano.
Visitors standing quietly within the grounds may notice a peaceful yet powerful atmosphere. The simplicity of the surroundings encourages visitors to slow down, reflect, and experience the spiritual traditions of Kumano at their own pace.
The Ubumori Amulet
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, visitors can receive an amulet known as Ubumori, which is associated with the powerful spirit of Izanami worshipped at Ubuta Shrine.
The amulet is meaningful not only to people praying for the arrival of a new life but also to those seeking renewal, personal growth, and the courage to begin something new.
A Traditional Pilgrimage Route from Kumano Hongu Taisha to Oyunohara
When visiting the sacred sites around Kumano Hongu Taisha, a traditional route is to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha → Ubuta Shrine → Oyunohara.
Visitors first pray at the main shrine complex of Kumano Hongu Taisha, then visit Ubuta Shrine to pay their respects to the powerful spirit of Izanami. The journey can then continue to Oyunohara, the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Following this route provides a meaningful way to experience the spiritual landscape of Kumano, where themes of life, death, renewal, and rebirth have been central to religious traditions for centuries.
How to Pray at Kumano Hongu Taisha
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, visitors traditionally bow once before passing through the torii gate and walk along the side of the approach rather than directly through its center, which is traditionally regarded as the path of the deity.
The approach includes a flight of 158 stone steps. Along the way, visitors encounter a purification site and a water basin where they can cleanse themselves before entering the sacred area.
At the shrine buildings, worship follows the traditional Shinto procedure of two bows, two claps, and one bow. Surrounded by towering cedar trees, the shrine grounds provide a powerful sense of the long spiritual history of Kumano.
Oyunohara: The Former Site of Kumano Hongu Taisha
After visiting Ubuta Shrine, travelers should consider continuing to Oyunohara, the former location of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Until the great flood of 1889, the main shrine stood on this sacred sandbar at the confluence of the Kumano River, Otonashi River, and Iwata River.
The original shrine complex was considerably larger than the present site. However, the devastating flood destroyed or washed away many of the shrine buildings. The surviving main shrines were subsequently relocated to their present location, while stone shrines commemorating other deities remained at the former site.
Today, Oyunohara is marked by an enormous torii gate approximately 34 meters high and 42 meters wide. It is widely recognized as one of the symbols of the Kumano region and can be seen from a considerable distance.
Surrounded by a small forest, Oyunohara retains a mysterious and tranquil atmosphere. In recent years, it has also attracted attention as a “sacred place of rebirth” and a spiritual destination where visitors come to quietly reflect and pray.
Hananoiwaya Shrine and the Legend of Izanami
Legends associated with Izanami can be found throughout the Kumano region. One of the most important places connected with her is Hananoiwaya Shrine in Kumano City, Mie Prefecture.
The Nihon Shoki, one of Japan’s oldest chronicles, states that Izanami died after giving birth to the fire deity and was buried at Arima Village in Kumano, in the ancient province of Kii.
Hananoiwaya Shrine is traditionally believed to stand at the location of her burial place. The shrine has no conventional main sanctuary. Instead, an enormous rock approximately 45 meters high serves as its sacred object.
This form of worship preserves an ancient tradition in which natural features such as enormous rocks, mountains, and forests were regarded as manifestations of the divine. Ubuta Shrine can also be understood within this broader spiritual tradition, where nature itself is closely connected with sacred power.
Kumano: A Sacred Land of Rebirth
The three major shrines of Kumano, collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan, have been revered since ancient times as sacred places associated with rebirth and spiritual renewal.
During the Heian period, retired emperors, members of the aristocracy, and other pilgrims traveled along the difficult Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes to reach the sacred shrines. The journey was regarded not simply as travel but as a spiritual experience representing death, purification, and rebirth.
One of the distinctive characteristics of Kumano faith was its openness to people regardless of social status or gender. Over time, people from many different backgrounds traveled to Kumano, and the enormous number of pilgrims became known through the expression “the pilgrimage of ants to Kumano.”
A Sacred Place for New Beginnings
Ubuta Shrine represents one of the most profound themes within the spiritual traditions of Kumano: the power of life and the possibility of a new beginning.
Although the shrine itself is small and understated, its connection with Izanami, Kumano Hongu Taisha, and the sacred landscape of Oyunohara gives it considerable spiritual significance.
For international visitors, a visit to Ubuta Shrine offers an opportunity to experience a quieter and more intimate side of Japanese spirituality. Standing among the trees, offering a prayer, and reflecting on the themes of life and renewal can provide a deeper understanding of why Kumano has attracted pilgrims for more than a thousand years.
When exploring the Kumano Hongu area, consider including Ubuta Shrine, Kumano Hongu Taisha, and Oyunohara in the same walking itinerary. Together, these sacred places reveal the enduring connection between nature, mythology, pilgrimage, and the idea of spiritual rebirth that lies at the heart of Kumano.