The Origins of Kumano Worship
The history of Kumano worship reaches back to ancient Japan. The name Kumano appears in the Nihon Shoki, one of Japan’s oldest historical chronicles, which records a tradition that Izanami-no-Mikoto, one of the major deities of Japanese mythology, was buried in Kumano.
For ancient Japanese people, Kumano was therefore associated with a mysterious world connected to death, rebirth, and the realm of the gods.
Over time, the mountains of Kumano also became important training grounds for ascetics practicing Shugendo, a Japanese mountain-based religious tradition. Practitioners crossed steep mountain trails, entered deep forests, and trained beneath waterfalls in an effort to purify their bodies and minds and deepen their spiritual connection.
During the Heian period (794–1185), beliefs in Amida Buddha and the Pure Land became widespread among the aristocracy. Kumano came to be regarded as a land of rebirth and a sacred gateway to the Pure Land.
Retired emperors and members of the aristocracy made repeated pilgrimages to Kumano, traveling along the difficult routes that are now collectively known as the Kumano Kodo. The enormous number of pilgrims eventually led to the expression “the ants’ pilgrimage to Kumano,” describing the seemingly endless stream of people traveling toward the sacred mountains.
The fact that people from different social backgrounds traveled to Kumano in search of spiritual salvation is an important part of Japan’s religious and cultural history.
Kumano as a Sacred Land of Shinto and Buddhism
One of the most distinctive characteristics of Kumano Sanzan is its history of Shinbutsu-shugo, or the blending of Shinto and Buddhism. This form of religious coexistence developed uniquely in Japan over many centuries.
The principal deity of Kumano Hongu Taisha, Ketsumiko-no-Okami, was associated with Amida Buddha. Kumano Hayatama Taisha’s principal deity, Kumano Hayatama-no-Okami, was identified with Yakushi Buddha, while Kumano Nachi Taisha’s Kumano Fusumi-no-Okami was associated with Senju Kannon, the Thousand-Armed Kannon.
As a result, Kumano became a sacred place where Shinto kami and Buddhist figures were understood as interconnected manifestations of the sacred.
This tradition can still be experienced today at Nachisan, where Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji Temple stand side by side. The coexistence of the shrine and temple offers visitors a valuable glimpse into the religious traditions that shaped Japanese history.
Kumano Hongu Taisha
Kumano Hongu Taisha has been revered as the spiritual center of Kumano worship for centuries. Its original sanctuary stood at Oyunohara, where the Kumano, Otonashi, and Iwatagawa rivers meet.
Much of the original shrine complex was destroyed by a major flood during the Meiji period. The surviving buildings were subsequently relocated to higher ground, where the shrine stands today.
At the former sacred site of Oyunohara, however, visitors can still see a magnificent giant torii gate, one of the largest in Japan. Surrounded by mountains and forests, the site retains a powerful sense of sacredness.
At the present shrine, visitors climb stone steps through a peaceful cedar forest before reaching beautiful buildings with traditional cypress-bark roofs. The sounds of wind and birds create an atmosphere of tranquility.
Known since ancient times as a “place of rebirth,” Kumano Hongu Taisha continues to attract visitors who come to reflect on their lives and seek a new beginning.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Located near the mouth of the Kumano River in Shingu City, Kumano Hayatama Taisha is immediately recognizable for its vivid vermilion shrine buildings.
The principal deities, Kumano Hayatama-no-Okami and Kumano Fusumi-no-Okami, are traditionally regarded as a divine couple. The shrine is therefore associated with blessings such as good relationships, marriage, and harmony within the family.
One of the most remarkable features of the shrine grounds is a huge nagi tree, believed to be more than 1,000 years old. Designated a Natural Monument of Japan, the tree is regarded as a symbol of Kumano’s sacred tradition and powerful vitality.
Nearby, Kamikura Shrine provides another fascinating destination. Visitors climb a steep stone staircase to reach Gotobiki-iwa, a massive sacred rock traditionally believed to be the place where the deities of Kumano first descended to the earth.
From the rock, visitors can enjoy an impressive view over Shingu and the Kumano Sea, making Kamikura Shrine a memorable destination for both spiritual and scenic experiences.
Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls
Kumano Nachi Taisha is famous for its connection with Nachi Falls, one of Japan’s most spectacular waterfalls. The waterfall itself is revered as the shrine’s sacred object.
Long before modern tourism, people saw the immense waterfall as a manifestation of the divine. This tradition reflects the ancient Japanese belief that powerful elements of nature could themselves embody sacred forces.
The approach to Nachi Taisha includes Daimonzaka, a famous stone-paved section of the Kumano Kodo surrounded by towering cedar trees. Walking beneath the ancient forest canopy can create the feeling of stepping back into the world of medieval Japan.
Next to the shrine stands Seiganto-ji Temple, the first temple on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage. The close relationship between the shrine and temple is one of the most visible examples of Japan’s former tradition of Shinto-Buddhist coexistence.
Further along the route, visitors encounter Nachi Falls, which plunges approximately 133 meters. The enormous volume of water and thunderous sound create an unforgettable spectacle and help explain why the waterfall has been revered for centuries.
The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes
The network of pilgrimage routes leading to Kumano Sanzan is known as the Kumano Kodo. These ancient trails cross the Kii Peninsula and form one of Japan’s most important pilgrimage networks. Together with the sacred sites of Kumano, they are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Major routes include Nakahechi, Ohechi, Kohechi, and Kiiji, each offering a different landscape and level of difficulty.
Nakahechi Route
Nakahechi is the best-known pilgrimage route. It runs from the Tanabe area toward Kumano Hongu Taisha through mountainous terrain. Historically, it was the principal route used by imperial pilgrims and aristocrats traveling to Kumano.
Ohechi Route
Ohechi follows the Pacific coastline. Hikers can enjoy dramatic coastal scenery and views of the Kumano Sea while following this historic pilgrimage route.
Kohechi Route
Kohechi connects Mount Koya with Kumano Hongu Taisha. It crosses several high mountain passes, including elevations of around 1,000 meters, and is considered a challenging route for experienced hikers.
Kiiji Route
Kiiji is an ancient route connecting the Kyoto and Osaka areas with Kumano. Historic towns, cultural properties, and other points of interest can be found along the route.
Experiencing Kumano Sanzan Throughout the Seasons
Spring
Spring brings cherry blossoms and fresh green foliage to the mountains. The cherry trees around Oyunohara and Mount Nanakoshi are particularly attractive during this season.
Summer
In summer, the forests become lush and vibrant, while rivers and waterfalls provide a refreshing atmosphere. Traditional festivals, including the spectacular Nachi Fire Festival, add color and excitement to the region.
Autumn
Autumn is one of the best seasons for walking the Kumano Kodo. The mountains are covered in brilliant autumn foliage, while the cool, clear air makes long walks through the forest especially pleasant.
Winter
Winter offers a quieter side of Kumano. Visitors can enjoy mountain scenery, hot springs, and seasonal experiences such as the famous Senninburo open-air bath at Kawayu Onsen.
The Unique Spiritual Appeal of Kumano Sanzan
The true attraction of Kumano Sanzan lies not simply in its historic buildings or spectacular scenery. It is a spiritual landscape shaped by centuries of human prayer.
Walking through ancient forests, listening to flowing rivers, standing before waterfalls, and quietly offering a prayer at a shrine can create a rare opportunity to step away from everyday life and reflect on oneself.
Kumano Sanzan represents a remarkable meeting point between ancient Japanese spirituality and the natural world. The mountains, forests, rivers, and waterfalls are not merely beautiful scenery; they form an integral part of the sacred landscape.
For international travelers interested in Japanese history, religion, hiking, traditional culture, or meaningful encounters with nature, Kumano Sanzan offers an opportunity to experience a deeper side of Japan—one shaped by centuries of pilgrimage, faith, and reverence for the natural world.