The Final Oji Shrine of the Kumano Kodo
The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes connecting sacred sites in the Kumano region. Along these routes, numerous small shrines known as Oji were established for pilgrims.
These shrines are collectively known as the “Kumano Kuju-ku Oji,” or the “99 Oji.” The number 99 does not necessarily indicate an exact count. Instead, it conveys the idea of there being a great many Oji shrines along the pilgrimage routes.
Oji shrines traditionally enshrined deities regarded as offspring or associated deities of Kumano Gongen. Pilgrims could stop at these sacred sites to pray for a safe journey, rest, and purify themselves before continuing toward the Kumano Grand Shrines.
Among these sites, Tafuke-oji held a particularly significant position because it stood immediately before Mount Nachi. Beyond this point lay the sacred realm of Nachi, where pilgrims were expected to proceed with greater reverence and devotion.
The Gateway to the Sacred Realm of Nachi
The area around Tafuke-oji was traditionally regarded as a gateway to the sacred realm of Nachi. Historical traditions indicate that several important markers once stood nearby, including Hasshinmon, formerly the first torii gate of Mount Nachi, as well as a stone marking the prohibition of hunting and killing animals and another indicating where visitors should dismount from their horses.
These features suggest that the area functioned as more than simply a point along the road. It served as a kind of boundary between the ordinary world and sacred space.
Pilgrims traveling to Kumano are believed to have performed purification rituals in the vicinity of Tafuke-oji before proceeding toward Mount Nachi. In this sense, the site can be compared with other purification sites along the Kumano pilgrimage routes, where travelers prepared both body and mind before entering a sacred area.
A Shrine Surrounded by Historical Mysteries
The origins and history of Tafuke-oji remain partly shrouded in mystery. Unlike some other important sites along the Kumano pilgrimage routes, the shrine is not extensively documented in major medieval pilgrimage records. Much of the surviving information comes from geographical records and travel writings dating from the Edo period and later.
The origin of the name “Tafuke” is also subject to several interpretations. One theory connects it with the Japanese word “tamuke,” meaning an offering or gesture of devotion made to a deity. According to this interpretation, “tamuke” may have gradually developed into the place name “Tafuke.”
Another theory suggests that the name may have originated from the name of a Buddhist monk associated with Mount Nachi. There is also an interpretation that the site was connected with purification rituals performed before pilgrims entered the sacred mountain area.
A shrine building is believed to have existed here during the Edo period. During the Meiji period, however, it was relocated and incorporated as Konomiya, a subsidiary shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha. Today, only monuments and stone features, including a Koshin-zuka, remain to indicate the site’s former importance.
Experience the Kumano Kodo at Daimon-zaka
One of the greatest attractions of Tafuke-oji is its location beside the historic landscape of the Kumano Kodo, particularly the famous Daimon-zaka slope.
Daimon-zaka is a roughly 500-meter-long stone-paved section of the pilgrimage route with an elevation difference of about 100 meters. It is one of the places where the historic atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo has been especially well preserved.
Moss-covered stone steps rise between towering cedar trees, creating a deeply atmospheric landscape. Walking along this ancient path can give visitors the impression of stepping back in time to the era when pilgrims traveled to Kumano on foot.
Near the entrance stand the famous Couple Cedar Trees, enormous trees said to be around 800 years old. Their immense trunks and age provide a powerful reminder of the long relationship between the forests of Kumano and the region’s spiritual traditions.
A Pilgrimage Route to Kumano Nachi Taisha
After passing Tafuke-oji and walking up Daimon-zaka, visitors eventually reach Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three major Kumano Grand Shrines known collectively as the Kumano Sanzan.
Kumano Nachi Taisha is part of the UNESCO World Heritage property “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” Its brilliant vermilion buildings create a striking contrast with the surrounding green mountains.
The shrine’s principal deity, Kumano Fusumi no Okami, identified with the goddess Izanami in Japanese tradition, is widely revered as a deity of connection and harmony. She is associated with bringing people and wishes together, making the shrine a popular destination for visitors seeking blessings for relationships and important life goals.
Seiganto-ji Temple and Japan’s Shinto-Buddhist Heritage
Next to Kumano Nachi Taisha stands Nachi-san Seiganto-ji Temple, a historic temple belonging to the Tendai school of Buddhism. The temple provides an important reminder of Japan’s former tradition of Shinbutsu-shugo, in which Shinto kami and Buddhist figures were worshipped together.
Seiganto-ji is also famous as the first temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a historic pilgrimage covering 33 temples dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion.
The temple’s main hall is a historic structure reconstructed under the direction of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. From the temple grounds, visitors can enjoy one of the most iconic views in the region: the red three-story pagoda framed by the lush mountains and Nachi Falls.
Nachi Falls: A Sacred Waterfall
Further into the sacred area lies Nachi Falls, one of Japan’s most famous waterfalls and traditionally regarded as one of the country’s three great waterfalls. The water plunges approximately 133 meters, creating a spectacular natural landmark.
For centuries, the waterfall itself has been revered as a divine presence. It is the sacred object of worship of Hiro-jinja Shrine, a subsidiary shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha, and is one of the most powerful expressions of the region’s ancient nature-based spirituality.
The sound of the enormous volume of water cascading down the cliff and the surrounding forest create an atmosphere that is both dramatic and deeply peaceful.
Walking in the Footsteps of Ancient Pilgrims
Tafuke-oji may no longer have an impressive shrine building, but its significance lies in the history and spiritual atmosphere that remain at the site. For more than a thousand years, countless pilgrims have traveled toward Kumano, carrying their hopes, prayers, and personal wishes with them.
Walking along the stone pavement of Daimon-zaka and listening to the sounds of the forest, visitors may feel a connection with those who made the same journey centuries ago.
The Kumano Kodo is therefore much more than a sightseeing route. It offers an opportunity to encounter Japan’s spiritual traditions, reverence for nature, pilgrimage culture, and ancient history through the experience of walking.
When visiting Kumano Nachi Taisha or Nachi Falls, be sure to include Tafuke-oji in your journey. A quiet pause at this historic site provides a meaningful way to appreciate the deep history of Kumano pilgrimage and the sacred landscape of Nachi.