Kumano Faith and the Land of Rebirth
The mountains and forests of Kumano have been revered since ancient times as sacred places where divine spirits reside. Waterfalls, rivers, forests, and mountains were considered manifestations of the sacred, and people respected the natural environment as a spiritual presence.
From the Nara period onward, Kumano’s ancient nature worship became closely connected with Buddhism and Shugendo, a Japanese mountain ascetic tradition. The idea of Shinbutsu-shugo, the blending of Shinto and Buddhist beliefs, became widespread. As a result, Kumano developed a distinctive religious culture in which Shinto deities were associated with Buddhist manifestations.
During the Heian period, Kumano gradually came to be regarded as a gateway to the Pure Land. Traveling to Kumano was believed to symbolize a spiritual death followed by rebirth as a renewed person. This belief established Kumano as a sacred land of spiritual rebirth.
Members of the imperial family and aristocracy made repeated pilgrimages to Kumano. Emperor Uda, Emperor Toba, Emperor Go-Shirakawa, and Emperor Go-Toba were among the prominent figures who traveled to the region. The journey was extremely demanding, requiring pilgrims to cross steep mountain paths. Nevertheless, completing the pilgrimage was considered deeply moving. The poet Fujiwara no Teika recorded his overwhelming emotion during his journey in his diary “Meigetsuki.”
Over time, the faith of Kumano spread beyond the imperial court and aristocracy to warriors and ordinary people. Kumano became known for welcoming people regardless of their social status or gender. So many pilgrims traveled to the region that the phenomenon became known as “the pilgrimage of ants to Kumano”, a phrase describing the seemingly endless stream of visitors.
The Shrine Buildings of Kumano Hongu Taisha
The present grounds of Kumano Hongu Taisha contain a group of beautiful shrine buildings designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. Their simple wooden construction and traditional cypress-bark roofs preserve the distinctive beauty of ancient Japanese shrine architecture.
First and Second Shrines
The First Shrine enshrines Kumano Musumi-no-Okami, while the Second Shrine enshrines Hayatama-no-Okami. These deities have traditionally been associated with different aspects of existence, including the present and the past.
Third Shrine – Shoseiden
The Third Shrine, known as Shoseiden, is the central sanctuary of Kumano Hongu Taisha. It enshrines Ketsumiko-no-Okami, the principal deity of the shrine. This deity is associated with the afterlife and occupies a central position in the spiritual tradition of Kumano.
Fourth Shrine – Wakamiya
The Fourth Shrine, or Wakamiya, enshrines Amaterasu-Okami, the sun goddess and one of the most important deities in Japanese mythology.
The present shrine buildings were constructed during the late Edo period. They miraculously survived the devastating flood of 1889 and were later relocated to their current site on higher ground. Their restrained decoration and elegant simplicity reflect the spiritual character of traditional Kumano worship.
The 158 Stone Steps to the Sacred Grounds
The approach to Kumano Hongu Taisha includes a staircase of 158 stone steps. Rows of banners dedicated to the shrine line the path, while towering cedar trees create a sense of history and mystery.
As you gradually climb the steps, the sounds and distractions of everyday life seem to fade away. The experience can feel almost like being guided from the ordinary world into a sacred realm.
Along the approach, Haraedo-no-Okami, a deity associated with purification, is enshrined. Worshippers traditionally purify themselves here before proceeding. They then rinse their hands and mouth at the purification fountain before approaching the main shrine buildings.
The center of the approach is traditionally considered the path of the deities. Visitors are therefore encouraged to walk on the right side when going up and on the left side when coming down.
Yatagarasu – The Sacred Three-Legged Crow
Kumano Hongu Taisha is also famous for Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow. According to Japanese mythology, Yatagarasu guided Emperor Jimmu when he traveled from Kumano toward Yamato, an ancient region corresponding roughly to present-day Nara.
Because of this legend, Yatagarasu is regarded as a divine guide and a symbol of guidance and finding one’s way. Visitors can find representations of Yatagarasu in various forms around the shrine, including statues, banners, and even a post box.
Yatagarasu is also featured in the emblem of the Japan Football Association. For this reason, soccer players, coaches, and other sports figures sometimes visit Kumano Hongu Taisha to pray for success and victory.
The Treasure Hall and Cultural Heritage
Kumano Hongu Taisha preserves many valuable cultural treasures that tell the story of Kumano’s long religious history. Some of these important objects can be viewed in the shrine’s Treasure Hall.
One particularly notable artifact is the Iron Kettle, which has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. The kettle was used in a traditional Yu-dachi purification ritual and bears an inscription dated to 1198, making it an exceptionally valuable historical object.
The shrine also preserves Buddhist and Shinto-related artworks and artifacts, including sacred images dating from the Heian period, mandalas, and mirrors dedicated to the shrine. Together, these treasures offer visitors a glimpse into the complex and deeply layered history of Kumano worship.
How to Pray at Kumano Hongu Taisha
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, the traditional order of worship begins with the Third Shrine, Shoseiden. Visitors can then proceed through the other sanctuaries in the following order.
Traditional Order of Worship
1. Third Shrine – Shoseiden: Ketsumiko-no-Okami
2. Second Shrine – Nakagono-mae: Hayatama-no-Okami
3. First Shrine – Nishigono-mae: Fusumi-no-Okami
4. Fourth Shrine – Wakamiya: Amaterasu-Okami
5. Mitsuyama Shrine
The standard form of prayer at a Shinto shrine is two bows, two claps, and one bow. Take a moment to quiet your mind before offering your prayer and avoid rushing through the experience.
Prayers, Amulets, and Shrine Treasures
Kumano Hongu Taisha offers various prayer services for wishes such as family safety, good health, protection from misfortune, business prosperity, and safe travel.
The shrine’s protective amulets and goshuin, traditional shrine stamps collected as a record of one’s visit, are also popular among visitors. One of the most distinctive items associated with Kumano is the Kumano Go-o Shinpū, a sacred talisman featuring characters formed from representations of Yatagarasu.
Visitors can receive goshuin associated with both Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara. They make meaningful souvenirs and records of a pilgrimage to this historic sacred site.
Enjoy the Area After Your Visit
After visiting the shrine, take some time to explore the surrounding area of Hongu. Local restaurants, soba shops, cafés, and souvenir stores offer opportunities to experience the flavors and culture of the Kumano region.
Local specialties include Mehari-zushi, a traditional regional dish made with rice wrapped in pickled mustard greens, as well as other dishes inspired by the cuisine of the Kii Peninsula.
Visitors can also relax at cafés and rest areas in the surrounding area. If you have more time, consider traveling to one of the famous nearby hot spring resorts, including Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, and Wataze Onsen.
Soaking in a hot spring after walking the Kumano Kodo is an excellent way to relax while experiencing the natural beauty and traditional culture of Kumano.
Oyunohara – The Original Sacred Site
Kumano Hongu Taisha was not originally located at its present site. The shrine once stood on Oyunohara, a sandbank where the Kumano River, Otonashi River, and Iwata River meet.
According to shrine tradition, in the 65th year of the reign of Emperor Sujin, three moons are said to have descended onto a huge sacred oak tree. The moon in the center declared itself to be “Shōjō Daigongen”, leading to the establishment of a shrine at this location. This mysterious legend continues to be remembered as part of the origins of Kumano worship.
In the past, Oyunohara was home to a magnificent complex of five main shrine buildings containing twelve sanctuaries. It also included a large gate, a sacred music hall, and a Noh theater. The sacred precinct reportedly covered approximately 11,000 tsubo, making it considerably larger than the present shrine grounds.
Historically, pilgrims traditionally crossed the river on foot rather than using a bridge. They purified themselves in the cool waters of the Otonashi River before entering the sacred grounds. Walking through the water with the hems of their clothing becoming wet was considered an important act of purification before worship.
From the Heian period through the medieval era, emperors, aristocrats, warriors, and ordinary people traveled to Kumano. The sheer number of pilgrims was so great that their journeys were compared to ants traveling toward Kumano.
The Great Flood of 1889 and the Relocation of the Shrine
Oyunohara suffered a devastating disaster in August 1889. Exceptionally heavy rainfall caused the Kumano River to overflow, destroying most of the shrine buildings that stood on the sacred sandbank.
Only the four upper sanctuaries survived the flood. In 1891, these buildings were relocated to the present site on higher ground, where they became the main structures of today’s Kumano Hongu Taisha. The middle and lower sanctuaries were not rebuilt, but stone shrines were established at Oyunohara to preserve their memory.
The flood marked a major turning point in the history of Kumano. Nevertheless, the faith and traditions of the region survived and continue to be passed down today.
A Sacred Landscape with Japan’s Largest Torii Gate
One of the most striking sights at modern Oyunohara is its enormous torii gate. Standing approximately 33.9 meters high and 42 meters wide, it is recognized as Japan’s largest torii gate. Completed in 2000, the monumental structure can be seen from a considerable distance and has become one of the symbols of Kumano.
Passing beneath the giant torii creates a powerful sense of entering a different world. Beyond it lies a quiet sacred space surrounded by tall cedar trees, where the history of countless prayers continues to be felt.
Oyunohara does not have many spectacular buildings or elaborate structures. Instead, its greatest attraction is its peaceful atmosphere. The songs of birds, the rustling of trees, and the sound of flowing water create an environment where visitors can naturally slow down and spend time in quiet reflection.
The Kumano Kodo and Kumano Hongu Taisha
Among the various routes of the Kumano Kodo, the Nakahechi Route was one of the most frequently traveled pilgrimage routes connecting Kyoto with the sacred sites of Kumano. After crossing mountains and enduring a long and challenging journey, pilgrims eventually reached Kumano Hongu Taisha as one of the most important sacred destinations.
One particularly meaningful location along the Nakahechi Route is Fushiogami-oji. According to tradition, pilgrims who had endured the difficult mountain journey could finally see Kumano Hongu Taisha from a distance for the first time. Overcome with emotion, they are said to have knelt and bowed toward the distant shrine.
The site offers a remarkable connection with the feelings of pilgrims from more than a thousand years ago. Their sense of anticipation, gratitude, and spiritual fulfillment remains part of the atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo today.
Many travelers still choose to reach Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot. Walking the historic pilgrimage route provides a sense of achievement, connection with nature, and spiritual reflection that cannot be experienced in quite the same way by simply arriving by vehicle.
A Sacred Place Where a Thousand Years of Prayer Lives On
Kumano Hongu Taisha is much more than a tourist attraction. It is a special sacred place that has received the prayers, hopes, and wishes of countless people for more than a thousand years.
Surrounded by mountains and clear rivers, Kumano offers something that can be difficult to find in modern life: a profound respect for nature and the opportunity to spend quiet time away from everyday distractions.
As you climb the stone steps, pass through the cedar forest, and stand quietly before the shrine buildings, you may find yourself feeling calmer and more refreshed. The experience can also provide an opportunity to reflect on your own life and consider what truly matters to you.
Whether you arrive after walking the Kumano Kodo or simply visit as part of a journey through Wakayama, Kumano Hongu Taisha can leave a lasting impression. Here, ancient history, spirituality, nature, and pilgrimage traditions come together in a remarkable landscape.
Take the time to experience the peaceful atmosphere of this sacred place and discover the enduring mystery and spiritual heritage of Kumano.