The Former Site of Kumano Hongu Taisha
From ancient times through the medieval period, Oyunohara was home to a magnificent complex of shrine buildings. The original grounds covered approximately 11,000 tsubo, an area of roughly 36,000 square meters. The complex reportedly included five main buildings containing twelve sacred halls, as well as a tower gate, a kagura hall for sacred performances, and a Noh theater.
The original shrine complex was considerably larger than the present-day Kumano Hongu Taisha. During the Heian period, the Kumano faith became particularly popular among members of the imperial family and aristocracy. Emperors who had retired from the throne, including Emperor Toba and Emperor Go-Shirakawa, repeatedly made pilgrimages to Kumano.
Travelers crossed difficult mountain paths and followed what is now known as the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The enormous number of pilgrims traveling toward Kumano became known as the “Ant-like Pilgrimage to Kumano”, a phrase describing the seemingly endless stream of people heading toward the sacred mountains.
Crossing the Sacred River
In earlier times, pilgrims entered the sacred area by walking across the river because there was no bridge. Before entering the shrine precinct, they purified themselves in the clear waters of the Otonashi River.
This ritual purification was an important part of the Kumano pilgrimage. Washing away physical and spiritual impurities before approaching the gods symbolized the idea of renewal and rebirth, one of the central themes of Kumano spirituality.
The Origins of Kumano Hongu Taisha
Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the three great shrines of Kumano, collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan. It is also regarded as the head shrine of more than 4,000 Kumano shrines throughout Japan.
The exact date of its foundation is uncertain. According to shrine tradition, however, Kumano Hongu Taisha was established at Oyunohara in the 65th year of Emperor Sujin’s reign.
An ancient legend tells that three moons descended upon a large oak tree at Oyunohara. The central moon is said to have proclaimed, “I am Kenzokudai Gongen,” revealing its divine identity. Following this sacred revelation, a shrine was established at the site, giving rise to Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The principal deity of Kumano Hongu Taisha is Ketsumimiko-no-Okami, a deity traditionally identified with Susanoo-no-Mikoto. Other important deities enshrined at Kumano include Hayatama-no-Okami, Fusumi-no-Okami, and Amaterasu-Okami. For centuries, these deities have been revered as divine guides who help people navigate the challenges of life.
The Famous Pilgrimage to Kumano
During the Heian period, pilgrimage to Kumano became particularly popular among members of the imperial family and aristocracy. Travelers departed from Kyoto and crossed long, difficult mountain routes before finally reaching the sacred sites of Kumano.
Emperor Toba and Emperor Go-Shirakawa were among the prominent imperial pilgrims who visited Kumano repeatedly. Over time, the practice spread beyond the imperial court and aristocracy. During the Muromachi period, samurai, merchants, farmers, and ordinary people also began making the pilgrimage.
The continuous stream of pilgrims traveling along the mountain paths was so impressive that it became known as the “Ant-like Pilgrimage to Kumano.” The expression reflects the extraordinary popularity of Kumano as a destination for spiritual pilgrimage.
The Great Flood of 1889
The history of Kumano Hongu Taisha changed dramatically in 1889. A devastating flood caused by exceptionally heavy rainfall struck the Kii Peninsula, causing the Kumano River to overflow.
Much of the magnificent shrine complex at Oyunohara was swept away. The original grounds had been several times larger than the present shrine precinct, with numerous sacred halls and ceremonial buildings standing along the sandbank.
The flood destroyed the central and lower shrine buildings. Only the upper four sacred halls survived and were subsequently relocated to higher ground.
The present-day Kumano Hongu Taisha was reconstructed and relocated to its current elevated site in 1891. At Oyunohara, stone shrines were established to enshrine the sacred spirits of the buildings that had been lost in the flood.
Japan’s Largest Torii Gate
The most striking symbol of Oyunohara today is the enormous Otorii Grand Torii Gate, erected in 2000. Measuring approximately 33.9 meters in height and 42 meters in width, it is widely recognized as the largest torii gate in Japan.
A torii traditionally marks the boundary between the ordinary human world and sacred space. Passing beneath a torii therefore symbolizes entering a place dedicated to the gods.
The enormous scale of the Oyunohara torii makes this transition especially dramatic. As visitors approach the gate and walk beneath it, the atmosphere seems to change as the surrounding forest gradually replaces the sounds and movement of everyday life.
A Mysterious Former Shrine Site
Beyond the giant torii, the former shrine grounds are surrounded by a quiet forest. Stone foundations and other remnants of the former shrine complex remain, providing a glimpse of the scale and history of the site.
Today, the area is remarkably peaceful. Tall trees surround the sacred grounds, while the sounds of birds and wind create a serene atmosphere.
Oyunohara is also increasingly known as a “sacred place of renewal” and a spiritual destination. Visitors often come during important turning points in their lives, hoping to find encouragement and inspiration for beginning a new chapter.
How to Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha
When visiting the Kumano Hongu Taisha area, the traditional order is to first worship at the present-day shrine, then visit nearby sacred sites before proceeding to Oyunohara.
Recommended Pilgrimage Order
1. Kumano Hongu Taisha
2. Ubusha Shrine
3. Oyunohara
The Approach and 158 Stone Steps
Before passing through the torii at the entrance to Kumano Hongu Taisha, visitors traditionally make a small bow as a sign of respect. The torii marks the entrance to sacred space.
It is also customary to avoid walking directly along the center of the approach, as the central path is traditionally regarded as the route of the deities. Visitors generally walk along one side instead.
The approach continues through a peaceful forest and includes 158 stone steps. As you gradually climb the stairs, the sounds of everyday life fade away and the atmosphere becomes increasingly tranquil.
Along the way, visitors encounter the Haraedo Okami purification deity and a temizuya, where hands and mouth are traditionally purified before worship.
The Traditional Worship Order
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, worship traditionally follows a specific order. Visitors first pray at the following sacred halls:
1. Shosho-den – Ketsumimiko-no-Okami
2. Naka-gozen – Hayatama-no-Okami
3. Nishi-gozen – Fusumi-no-Okami
4. Higashi-gozen – Amaterasu-Okami
5. Manzan-sha – the deity of connection and harmony
The standard form of worship is two bows, two claps, and one final bow. Taking a moment to pray quietly can help visitors appreciate the spiritual atmosphere that has drawn pilgrims to Kumano for centuries.
Yatagarasu and the Kumano Faith
One of the most recognizable symbols of Kumano is Yatagarasu, the legendary three-legged crow.
According to Japanese mythology, Yatagarasu was a divine messenger who guided Emperor Jimmu from Kumano toward Yamato, the ancient heartland of Japan. For this reason, Yatagarasu has traditionally been worshipped as a symbol of guidance.
The three-legged crow can be found throughout the Kumano Hongu Taisha grounds, appearing on banners, religious items, souvenirs, and other objects. Yatagarasu is also widely recognized outside Kumano because the symbol has been adopted by the Japan Football Association.
Kumano Kodo and the Chotto Yorimichi Viewpoint
Visitors hiking the Kumano Kodo, the ancient pilgrimage routes through the Kii Mountains, should also consider stopping at the Chotto Yorimichi Viewpoint.
Located along the route from Fushiogami-oji toward Kumano Hongu Taisha, the viewpoint offers a spectacular panorama of the mountains and the enormous Oyunohara torii gate.
The scenery is particularly atmospheric from autumn through winter, when morning mist can settle over the mountains. At sunset, the surrounding peaks may glow with warm colors as the sun sinks behind the landscape, creating a memorable view of the giant torii.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara form part of the UNESCO World Heritage property “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
The spiritual culture of Kumano developed through a unique interaction between Shinto, Buddhism, and Shugendo, a Japanese mountain ascetic tradition. This blending of religious traditions reflects a deep reverence for mountains, forests, rivers, and other elements of nature.
The sacred landscapes of Kumano therefore represent not only religious history but also an important aspect of Japanese cultural heritage, where nature, spirituality, pilgrimage, and human life have been closely connected for centuries.
Things to Enjoy After Your Visit
After visiting Oyunohara and Kumano Hongu Taisha, take some time to explore the surrounding Hongu area.
Local restaurants offer regional specialties such as mehari-zushi, a traditional rice dish wrapped in pickled mustard leaves, as well as soba noodles and other dishes associated with the Kumano region.
The area is also surrounded by historic hot spring destinations, including Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, and Wataze Onsen. Relaxing in one of these hot springs is an excellent way to recover after walking part of the Kumano Kodo.
Access to Oyunohara
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, visitors can take a Ryujin Bus toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. The journey takes approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes, followed by a short walk from the Oyunohara-mae bus stop.
Oyunohara is also approximately a 10-minute walk from Kumano Hongu Taisha. Visiting both locations together is highly recommended, as it allows travelers to understand how the present shrine and its former sacred site are connected.
Oyunohara: A Sacred Place of Renewal
Kumano has long been regarded as a land of renewal and rebirth. For ancient pilgrims, the difficult journey through the Kumano mountains, followed by worship at the sacred sites of Kumano Sanzan, represented a spiritual journey from death toward rebirth.
At the heart of this tradition stands Oyunohara, a place that can be regarded as one of the origins of the Kumano faith. Although the physical landscape was dramatically changed by the great flood of 1889, the spiritual significance of the site has continued to be passed down through generations.
Walking beneath the enormous torii and into the quiet forest provides a powerful contrast to the pace of modern life. Surrounded by ancient trees, the sound of birds and the gentle movement of the wind create an atmosphere in which visitors can pause, reflect, and reconnect with themselves.
Oyunohara is a remarkable destination where nature, history, pilgrimage, and spirituality come together. For international travelers exploring the Kumano Kodo and the Kii Peninsula, a visit to this sacred former shrine site offers a deeper understanding of one of Japan’s most enduring spiritual landscapes.