A Pilgrimage Market Reflected in the Name “Ichinono”
The name Ichinono Oji contains the Japanese word “ichi,” meaning a market or marketplace. Local tradition holds that a market was once held in this area.
During the medieval period, when pilgrimage to the Kumano Sanzan became increasingly popular, large numbers of people traveled along the Kumano Kodo. Markets naturally developed along the pilgrimage routes to provide travelers with food, supplies, and other necessities.
The historical record Kii Zoku Fudoki also connects the name of the shrine with a market held for passing pilgrims. This provides an intriguing glimpse into the lively atmosphere that once existed along the pilgrimage route.
Today, the surrounding area is peaceful and rural, making it difficult to imagine the bustle of the past. Yet the shrine’s name preserves a memory of a time when pilgrims gathered here not only to pray, but also to rest, exchange goods, and interact with other travelers.
The Role of Oji Shrines on the Kumano Kodo
Oji shrines are small sacred sites associated with the deities connected to the Kumano Sanzan. Numerous Oji were established along the ancient pilgrimage routes, and pilgrims traditionally stopped at them to pray and perform religious rites during their journeys.
These shrines varied considerably in size. Some consisted of little more than a simple sacred structure, while others developed into larger facilities that included places where pilgrims could stay or bathe.
For people traveling long distances on foot, Oji shrines therefore served a dual role as places of worship and important resting points.
Ichinono Oji was similarly positioned as an important stopping point on the way toward Nachi Mountain. Pilgrims are believed to have prayed here for a safe journey before undertaking the final part of their pilgrimage.
A Shrine Recorded in Ancient Pilgrimage Diaries
The exact date when Ichinono Oji was founded is unknown, but the shrine is considered to have a very long history.
Its name appears in pilgrimage records dating back to the early 12th century. In the diary of Fujiwara no Munetada, it is recorded as “Ichino,” while the pilgrimage diary of Empress Dowager Shōmyōmon-in refers to it as “Ichinono.”
These records indicate that the shrine already existed by at least the late Heian period. At that time, pilgrimages to Kumano were undertaken by retired emperors, members of the imperial family, and aristocrats, making the Kumano pilgrimage an important religious and cultural activity.
Ichinono Oji was therefore likely an important spiritual landmark along one of Japan’s most prestigious pilgrimage routes.
The shrine was also historically protected as a subsidiary shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha, with the grand shrine reportedly involved in its maintenance and repairs.
The Present Shrine in a Peaceful Cedar Forest
Today, Ichinono Oji Shrine stands in a tranquil setting surrounded by tall cedar trees. The grounds contain the main sanctuary, a worship hall that also serves as an office, a bell-shaped gate, and a stone torii gate.
The buildings are relatively simple, but the quiet surroundings create a solemn and distinctly Kumano atmosphere. The main sanctuary features a traditional nagare-zukuri style, characterized by a gracefully extended roof over the front of the building.
The wooden structure and copper-sheet roof blend naturally with the surrounding forest, creating a serene sacred space where visitors can pause and reflect.
Yatagarasu Shrine
Within the grounds is also the small Jinushi Yatagarasu Shrine, dedicated to Take-tsunomi-no-Mikoto, a deity associated with the legendary Yatagarasu of Kumano mythology.
Yatagarasu is the sacred three-legged crow traditionally associated with Kumano. According to local tradition, descendants of Yatagarasu once lived in the Ichinono area.
This connection adds another layer of meaning to the shrine and reflects the close relationship between the natural landscape, mythology, and religious traditions of the Kumano region.
Sugiyashiro: The Possible Original Site of Ichinono Oji
There has long been discussion about whether the present shrine stands on the original site of Ichinono Oji.
One influential theory places the original shrine site approximately 100 meters north of the present location, at a place known as Bunmei-no-Oka. A sacred site called Sugiyashiro, also known as Osugisha, remains there today.
The site contains foundation stones believed to have belonged to an earlier shrine, as well as a large stone known as the Yōgō-ishi.
The Sacred Yōgō-ishi Stone
According to local tradition, the Yōgō-ishi marks the place where Amaterasu Ōmikami, the sun goddess of Japanese mythology, descended to the earthly realm.
The stone still has a mysterious atmosphere, and its presence provides a glimpse into the ancient traditions of nature worship that have long been deeply rooted in the Kumano region.
In Kumano, mountains, forests, rivers, and rocks have traditionally been regarded as sacred manifestations of the divine. The Yōgō-ishi can therefore be understood as an important symbol of this ancient relationship between nature and spirituality.
The Historic Gōgura Stone Storehouses
Near Ichinono Oji are unusual stone structures known as Gōgura. These were storehouses once used to keep rice collected as taxation.
The buildings had a distinctive construction in which the roof was installed only when necessary. Their interiors were divided into several sections, while the thick stone walls created a maze-like appearance.
It is said that rice belonging to Kumano Nachi Taisha was also stored here, suggesting that these storehouses played an important role in supporting the religious community and activities of the shrine.
Two of the original structures remain today and are designated as Historic Sites by Nachikatsuura Town. Together with the shrine, they provide an interesting glimpse into the everyday economic and religious life of the Kumano region in earlier times.
Walk the Kumano Kodo and Experience Its History
Ichinono Oji can be reached from Nachi Station on the JR Kisei Main Line by taking a Kumano Kotsu bus and getting off at either the Iseki or Ichinono Elementary School bus stop, followed by a walk.
As visitors follow the old road through the residential area, the surroundings gradually become quieter and more wooded. The transition from the modern village to the peaceful forest helps recreate the atmosphere of the ancient Kumano pilgrimage route.
Unlike major tourist attractions, Ichinono Oji does not have an imposing scale or elaborate facilities. Its appeal lies instead in its quietness, simplicity, and sense of history.
Walking through the area, visitors can imagine the countless pilgrims who once passed through this same landscape—their prayers, tired footsteps, and anticipation as they approached sacred Nachi Mountain.
A Meaningful Stop on the Kumano Kodo
Ichinono Oji Shrine is a small but historically significant destination where the spiritual heritage of the Kumano Kodo can still be felt.
Its ancient pilgrimage records, traditional shrine architecture, connections with Kumano mythology, possible original shrine site, and historic stone storehouses all reveal different aspects of the region’s past.
For travelers walking the Kumano Kodo, Ichinono Oji is more than simply another stop along the route. It is a place to pause, appreciate the surrounding forest, and reflect on the generations of pilgrims who have traveled these paths in search of spiritual renewal.