The Legend of the Kannon Who Saved a Horse
The name Sukumadani Kannon is connected to a fascinating legend that has been passed down for centuries.
Approximately 600 years ago, during the Muromachi period, the famous warrior Oguri Hangan was traveling with his wife, Terute-hime, toward Yunomine Onsen in search of treatment for an illness. During the journey, however, his beloved horse suddenly became seriously ill and collapsed, unable to continue.
Having heard that the Kannon enshrined at this sacred site possessed miraculous powers, Oguri Hangan and his attendants prayed earnestly for the horse’s recovery. According to the legend, the horse miraculously regained its strength and was able to walk again.
Deeply grateful for the Kannon’s blessing, Oguri Hangan is said to have rebuilt the temple buildings in 1426. He gave the temple the name Sukumadani Kannon, meaning the Kannon who saved the horse.
The legend remains closely connected with the local landscape. Place names such as Ikuma and Umagawa in Kamitonda are traditionally associated with this story, reflecting the deep connection between the temple and the region’s history.
A Temple Where Nature and Architecture Become One
One of the greatest attractions of Sukumadani Kannon is its spectacular setting, where the temple seems to become part of the surrounding mountain landscape.
A massive natural rock formation dominates the grounds, and the main hall is built directly against a dramatic rocky cavern. This sacred cavern has traditionally been called the Dadakira Rock Cave. Standing within this mysterious natural setting, the main hall has an atmosphere that feels particularly appropriate for an ancient mountain sanctuary.
The distance from the main gate to the main hall is approximately 1 kilometer, taking around 15 minutes on foot. Along the approach, visitors can enjoy trees and flowers including cherry blossoms, hydrangeas, and maple trees.
In spring, cherry blossoms add soft colors to the mountains. Early summer brings spectacular hydrangeas, while autumn transforms the surrounding landscape with brilliant foliage. The peaceful atmosphere of this mountain temple provides an opportunity to slow down and appreciate the changing seasons.
The Main Hall and Principal Buddhist Image
The main hall is an impressive wooden structure built from zelkova wood and integrated into the enormous natural rock cavern. Its unusual setting is one of the temple’s most memorable architectural features.
At the center of the hall is the principal image, Batō Kannon, or the Horse-Headed Kannon. This important Buddhist image is traditionally attributed to Kaikei, one of the most celebrated Buddhist sculptors of the Kamakura period.
The statue is a sacred hibutsu, or hidden Buddhist image, and is normally kept out of public view. It is traditionally revealed only once every 12 years, on the first day of the Horse in the traditional lunar calendar. This rare unveiling attracts worshippers from throughout Japan.
The main hall also enshrines other Buddhist figures, including Jūichimen Kannon, the Eleven-Headed Kannon, Koyasu Kannon, associated with safe childbirth and family blessings, and Kōbō Daishi, the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism.
Fudō Hall and Goma Fire Rituals
The temple grounds are also home to a Fudō Hall, where Fudō Myōō, the Buddhist deity of immovable wisdom, is enshrined together with his attendants Kongara Dōji and Seitaka Dōji.
On the 18th and 28th of each month, solemn Goma fire rituals are performed. During these ceremonies, sacred wooden prayer sticks are burned in a ritual fire as prayers are offered for the removal of obstacles, misfortune, and worldly attachments.
Visitors may write their wishes on prayer sticks and entrust them to the ritual fire. For those seeking protection and good fortune, the Fudō Hall is an important spiritual destination within the temple grounds.
En no Gyōja and the Tradition of Shugendō
As the traditional founder of the temple, En no Gyōja occupies an important place in the history of Sukumadani Kannon. The temple grounds feature a monumental statue of him known as Jinpen Daibosatsu.
The statue stands approximately 4 meters tall and is among the largest representations of En no Gyōja in Japan. It was created to commemorate the 1,300th anniversary of his passing. The legendary figures Zenki and Gōki, traditionally regarded as En no Gyōja’s attendants, are also enshrined nearby.
The staircase in this area forms part of the 36 Sacred Fudō Pilgrimage Site, where visitors can symbolically follow the tradition of visiting the 36 Fudō Myōō sacred sites of the Kinki region.
Takiō Shrine and the Nanki Kumano Geopark
Within the temple grounds stands Takiō Shrine, a sacred training site associated with Shugendō and traditionally said to have been established by En no Gyōja.
The shrine enshrines Takiō, Gion, and Hachiman and is also known as Otaki Daigongen. Water flowing down from the sacred mountain springs creates a tranquil and mysterious landscape, allowing visitors to experience an atmosphere that evokes the site’s long spiritual history.
The surrounding area is also important from a geological perspective and has been designated as a geosite within the Nanki Kumano Geopark. The combination of geology, mountain scenery, and religious heritage makes this part of the temple particularly fascinating for visitors interested in both nature and culture.
The Deity of Good Relationships and a Heart-Shaped Tafoni
Sukumadani Kannon is also known as a popular destination for prayers concerning love, relationships, and good fortune. A deity known as the Deity of Good Relationships is worshipped here.
The blessings are not limited to romantic relationships. Visitors also pray for beneficial encounters in business, friendships, financial opportunities, and other forms of good fortune.
Near the shrine are naturally weathered rock formations containing holes known as tafoni. Some of these holes appear heart-shaped. Local tradition says that those who discover one may be blessed with a happy relationship.
Heart shapes can also be found in elements such as stepping stones and bells around the site, adding to the temple’s popularity as a romantic spiritual destination, particularly among younger visitors.
The Hydrangea Mandala Garden
One of the temple’s most spectacular seasonal attractions is the Hydrangea Mandala Garden.
The garden generally opens from mid-June to late June, when approximately 10,000 hydrangea plants representing around 120 varieties bloom across an area of about 2,000 tsubo, or approximately 6,600 square meters.
It is regarded as one of the finest hydrangea viewing destinations in the Kinan region and attracts many visitors and photography enthusiasts each year.
The name “Mandala Garden” has a spiritual meaning. In Buddhism, a mandala represents a sacred realm in which Buddhas and deities are arranged in harmony. The rounded shapes of blooming hydrangea flowers are reminiscent of a mandala, inspiring the garden’s beautiful name.
The garden also contains a variety of plants that provide seasonal interest throughout the year, creating a peaceful environment where visitors can relax and appreciate nature.
Toku-e Fudō Myōō and the Temple’s Revival
The grounds also contain a statue of Toku-e Fudō Myōō, which is closely connected with the temple’s modern history.
The statue commemorates the dedication of a former head priest and his wife, who worked tirelessly to restore the temple during the difficult years following World War II.
At a time when the temple had neither electricity nor running water and very few visitors came to the site, the couple devoted themselves to preserving and rebuilding the temple. Through their years of effort, the once-declining temple gradually recovered and developed into the beautiful sanctuary visitors can see today.
Many of the cherry trees, maple trees, and hydrangeas now found throughout the grounds are also regarded as part of the legacy of their long commitment to the temple.
A Pilgrimage to the Six Jizō Statues
Within the Hydrangea Mandala Garden are six paths representing important crossroads in human life. Each path is associated with one of the Six Jizō Bodhisattvas.
Visitors can walk around the garden and pay their respects to each Jizō statue. According to Buddhist tradition, this pilgrimage offers spiritual guidance and protection from the difficulties and uncertainties encountered throughout life.
Walking quietly from one statue to another, surrounded by trees and seasonal flowers, provides a peaceful opportunity to slow down, reflect, and reconnect with oneself.
Panoramic Views from the Observation Deck
An observation deck within the temple grounds offers a spectacular 360-degree panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.
From here, visitors can look across Tanabe Bay, the Kii Channel, and the mountains of Kishu. On clear days, the view stretches far into the distance.
The scenery changes with the seasons, from fresh spring greenery and summer foliage to colorful autumn mountains. The observation deck is an excellent place to appreciate the natural beauty of the Kinan region from above.
New Year’s Visits and Annual Events
Sukumadani Kannon is also one of the most popular destinations for Hatsumōde, the traditional Japanese custom of visiting a shrine or temple at the beginning of the New Year.
Approximately 70,000 visitors are said to visit during the first three days of the year, praying for family safety, protection from misfortune, and good fortune in the coming year.
Various religious events, including Goma fire rituals and memorial ceremonies, are held throughout the year, and visitors are welcome to participate according to the temple’s schedule.
During the traditional Joya no Kane New Year’s Eve bell ringing, one of the largest hanging bells in the Kinan region is struck, creating a memorable atmosphere as visitors gather to welcome the New Year.
Access Information
Sukumadani Kannon is located approximately 25 minutes by car from the Shirahama Onsen area, making it a convenient cultural and spiritual destination to combine with a trip to the famous hot spring resort.
By Car
From the end of the Hanwa Expressway, take the Nanki-Tanabe Interchange. The temple is approximately a 20-minute drive from the interchange.
By Train
From Asso Station on the JR Kisei Line, the temple is approximately a 5-minute taxi ride away.
Please note that it takes approximately 20 minutes on foot from the parking area to the main hall. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended, particularly for visitors planning to explore the temple grounds and mountain paths.
A Sacred Place Where Nature, History, and Faith Meet
Sukumadani Kannon is one of the most fascinating spiritual sites in the Kinan region, with a history stretching back approximately 1,300 years. Here, dramatic natural landscapes, Buddhist traditions, Shugendō heritage, and seasonal flowers come together in a uniquely beautiful setting.
The main hall rising beside a gigantic natural rock, the legend of the horse saved by Kannon, colorful hydrangeas and autumn foliage, and the many Buddhist and Shintō figures found throughout the grounds all contribute to the temple’s distinctive character.
For international visitors, Sukumadani Kannon offers an opportunity to experience a quieter and more contemplative side of Wakayama. Beyond the famous attractions of the Kumano region, this mountain sanctuary provides a place to discover the deep relationship between Japanese spirituality, nature, and local history.
Whether you visit to admire the dramatic rock formations, enjoy seasonal flowers, learn about Shugendō, or simply spend a peaceful moment surrounded by nature, Sukumadani Kannon is a memorable destination to include in a journey through southern Wakayama.