A Temple Founded to Honor Minamoto no Sanetomo
The predecessor of Kokoku-ji was a temple called Saihō-ji, which is believed to have been founded around 1227, during the early Kamakura period.
The temple was established by Kazuyama Kagerin, a retainer of Minamoto no Sanetomo, the third shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate. After Sanetomo was assassinated, Kagerin became a Buddhist monk and devoted himself to Buddhist practice in order to pray for his former lord.
According to tradition, Hojo Masako, the influential mother of Minamoto no Sanetomo, was impressed by Kagerin’s loyalty. She granted him administrative rights over the Yura estate, allowing him to establish a temple in the area.
Later, the distinguished Zen monk Shinchi Kakushin, who had traveled to Song China, returned to Japan and was invited to Saihō-ji. Under his leadership, the temple developed into an important center of Zen Buddhism.
During the Northern and Southern Courts period, Emperor Go-Murakami granted the temple the name “Kokoku-ji.” Its reputation grew so much that it became known throughout Japan as one of the important Zen temples of the Kii region.
Master Hottō Kokushi and the Spread of Zen Culture
The Life of Shinchi Kakushin
One of the most important figures in the history of Kokoku-ji is Shinchi Kakushin, who was later honored with the title Hottō Kokushi. He was one of the prominent Zen monks of medieval Japan and played an important role in transmitting Zen teachings and cultural traditions between China and Japan.
Kakushin was born in 1206 in the area around present-day Matsumoto City in Nagano Prefecture. He became a monk at a young age and studied Buddhism at major religious centers, including Mount Koya and Todai-ji Temple in Nara.
He eventually traveled to Song China, where he underwent intensive Zen training under renowned Chinese Buddhist teachers. After returning to Japan, he brought back teachings and practices that influenced the development of Zen Buddhism in the Kii region.
When Kakushin was invited to Saihō-ji in Yura, he became its founding Zen master and transformed the temple into an important center of Zen practice. His teachings spread to areas including Kumano and Ise, and he trained many disciples who continued his tradition.
The Birthplace of Fuke Shakuhachi Tradition
Kakushin is also associated with the introduction of the Fuke-style shakuhachi tradition to Japan. On his return from China, he is said to have brought back a Chinese lay musician who played the shakuhachi, a traditional Japanese bamboo flute.
Because of this connection, Kokoku-ji is regarded as an important historical site for the development of shakuhachi music in Japan. A shakuhachi training hall remains on the temple grounds, continuing the connection between the temple and traditional Japanese musical culture.
The Giant Tengu Mask and Its Mysterious Legend
The Impressive Tengu Hall
One of the most fascinating sights at Kokoku-ji is the Tengu Hall. Inside is an enormous tengu mask measuring approximately 2.4 meters high and 2.7 meters wide.
Tengu are legendary supernatural beings from Japanese folklore, traditionally depicted with human-like bodies, red faces, and exceptionally long noses. They are often associated with mountains, martial arts, and mysterious spiritual powers.
The enormous mask at Kokoku-ji is connected to a famous local legend about the temple’s reconstruction.
The Legend of the Great Tengu
According to the story, the temple was once destroyed by a devastating fire. As the monks struggled to determine how the temple could be rebuilt, a mysterious traveling monk appeared before them.
The stranger offered to rebuild the temple on one condition: the monks and other people were not to approach the temple until dawn.
The following morning, when the people returned, they were astonished to discover that the temple buildings had been completely reconstructed. However, the mysterious monk had disappeared without a trace.
The people came to believe that the traveler had actually been the Great Tengu of Mount Akagi, who had used supernatural powers to rebuild the temple overnight.
In gratitude for this legendary act, a gigantic tengu mask was dedicated at the temple. With its bright red face, extremely long nose, and sharp golden eyes, the mask is an unforgettable sight and appears almost as though it is watching over the temple and its visitors.
The Annual Tengu Festival
Every January, Kokoku-ji holds a Tengu Festival. Participants dressed as tengu take part in processions and traditional ceremonies associated with the legend.
The festival provides an opportunity to experience a local tradition rooted in folklore and religious belief. It also helps preserve the stories and customs that have been passed down through generations in Yura.
Kokoku-ji and the History of Soy Sauce
From Kinzanji Miso to Soy Sauce
Kokoku-ji is also closely associated with the history of soy sauce, one of the essential ingredients of Japanese cuisine.
According to local tradition, Hottō Kokushi brought the techniques for making Kinzanji miso, also known as Kinzanji-style fermented miso, back to Japan after studying in Song China.
Kinzanji miso is made by fermenting ingredients such as vegetables and grains together with miso. During the fermentation process, a flavorful liquid naturally separates from the mixture. This liquid was eventually recognized as a useful seasoning and is traditionally regarded as one of the precursors to modern Japanese soy sauce.
Yura and Yuasa: A Center of Japanese Fermentation Culture
The neighboring areas of Yura and Yuasa have long benefited from a mild climate and abundant high-quality water, conditions that helped fermentation industries flourish.
Yuasa in particular is widely recognized as an important birthplace of Japanese soy sauce brewing and has been included among Japan’s recognized heritage sites for its traditional food culture.
Visitors to the Yura area can still find locally produced soy sauce and Kinzanji miso. One popular local product is Tengu Soy Sauce, which is recommended as a souvenir for travelers who want to take home a taste of Wakayama’s traditional food culture.
Experience Zen Meditation in a Quiet Setting
A Chance to Experience Zazen
Kokoku-ji also provides opportunities to experience zazen, the seated meditation practice central to Zen Buddhism. Sitting quietly in the meditation hall and focusing on slow, steady breathing can provide a refreshing break from the pace of everyday life.
The sounds of birds, wind, and surrounding nature create a peaceful environment that encourages visitors to relax and concentrate. Even beginners can participate when introductory guidance is available, making zazen an approachable way to experience an aspect of traditional Japanese Zen culture.
For international visitors, practicing meditation in a historic Zen temple can be a particularly memorable cultural experience. Spending quiet time in the same kind of environment where generations of Buddhist practitioners have trained offers a different perspective on Japan’s religious heritage.
Historic Buildings and Cultural Treasures
The temple grounds contain a number of traditional structures, including the main hall, temple gates, bell tower, Zen meditation hall, and reception or study buildings.
Many of the present buildings were reconstructed after the temple was destroyed during Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s military campaign in Kii Province. In 1601, Asano Yoshinaga, the lord of the Kishu domain, undertook the reconstruction of the temple complex.
Kokoku-ji also preserves numerous cultural treasures. Among the most important are the wooden seated statue of Hottō Kokushi and a painted portrait of Hottō Kokushi on silk. Both are designated Important Cultural Properties of Japan and are highly valued examples of medieval Buddhist art.
A huge rock near the temple gate has also been designated a Natural Monument of Japan. Together with the historic buildings and surrounding greenery, it contributes to the distinctive landscape of Kokoku-ji.
Discover the Attractions of Yura
Shirasaki Ocean Park
Shirasaki Ocean Park is famous for its spectacular landscape of brilliant white limestone cliffs contrasting with deep blue ocean waters. The scenery has earned the area the nickname “the Aegean Sea of Japan.”
From viewpoints around the park, visitors may be able to see as far as Awaji Island and Shikoku on clear days. The dramatic contrast between rock and sea makes it one of the most memorable coastal landscapes in Wakayama.
Yura Sea Fishing Park
Yura Sea Fishing Park is a popular fishing destination suitable for families and beginners. Visitors can enjoy fishing while taking in views of the surrounding ocean, making it an enjoyable outdoor activity during a trip through Yura.
Totsui Limestone Cave
Totsui Limestone Cave is a naturally formed cave created over a long period by geological processes. Its underground passages and unusual rock formations provide visitors with the feeling of embarking on a small subterranean adventure.
The Kumano Kodo
The historic Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes are also within the wider region. Recognized as part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, these ancient trails connect sacred destinations across the Kii Peninsula and offer travelers an opportunity to experience Japan’s traditional pilgrimage culture and mountain landscapes.
A Journey into the History and Culture of Yura
Kokoku-ji Temple brings together several fascinating aspects of Japanese culture in one historic site. Its story encompasses the development of Zen Buddhism during the Kamakura period, the teachings of Hottō Kokushi, the mysterious legend of the Great Tengu, and the traditional origins of soy sauce and fermented food culture.
Walking through the quiet temple grounds, visitors can sense how religious traditions, local folklore, craftsmanship, music, and food culture have been intertwined over the centuries.
For travelers exploring Wakayama, Kokoku-ji offers an opportunity to go beyond the famous tourist attractions and discover a deeper side of regional Japanese culture. A visit here, combined with the coastal scenery of Shirasaki Ocean Park and other attractions around Yura, makes for a rewarding journey through the history, nature, spirituality, and food culture of the Kii Peninsula.