Kirime-oji and the Kumano Kuju-ku Oji
One of the Five Great Oji Shrines
Numerous Oji shrines were established along the ancient pilgrimage routes leading to the Kumano Sanzan, the three major sacred shrines of the Kumano region. Collectively, these sites are known as the “Kumano Kuju-ku Oji,” or the “99 Oji.”
The number 99 does not necessarily represent an exact historical count. Rather, it expresses the idea of a large number of sacred sites spread along the pilgrimage routes.
Among these Oji shrines, five were regarded as particularly important: Fujishiro-oji, Inabane-oji, Takijiri-oji, Hosshinmon-oji, and Kirime-oji. Kirime-oji therefore held a position of exceptional prestige.
During the Heian and Kamakura periods, pilgrimage to Kumano became especially popular among members of the imperial family and aristocracy. At that time, a Kumano pilgrimage was not simply a journey through the countryside. It was a deeply religious pilgrimage associated with prayers for salvation and spiritual purification.
Kirime-oji served as an important place of worship along this journey, supporting pilgrims both spiritually and physically as they made their way toward the sacred Kumano shrines.
The Long History of Kirime-oji
A Sacred Site Associated with Kumano Gongen
According to shrine tradition, the origins of Kirime-oji date back to the era of Emperor Sujin, although the exact date of its foundation cannot be historically confirmed.
The site is also traditionally said to have been a temporary dwelling place of Kumano Gongen, a sacred manifestation associated with the deities of the Kumano region. This tradition has contributed to the shrine’s reputation as a sacred place since ancient times.
References to Kirime-oji appear in several historical accounts of Kumano pilgrimages. In 1109, the diary “Chuyuki” records a purification ritual performed near “Kiribe Mizube,” followed by an offering made at the Oji shrine.
Kirime-oji is also mentioned in historical records such as “Kikki” from 1174 and “Kumano Michi-no-Ma no Guki” from 1201. These records demonstrate the shrine’s importance during the medieval period and provide valuable insight into the customs of ancient Kumano pilgrims.
Its Connection with Taira no Kiyomori
Kirime-oji is also associated with an important episode in Japanese history. According to the medieval epic “Heiji Monogatari”, the warrior and powerful political figure Taira no Kiyomori received news of Minamoto no Yoshitomo’s uprising while he was traveling on a pilgrimage to Kumano.
This episode illustrates how the Kumano pilgrimage route was not only a religious road but also a setting for important political and historical events. Kirime-oji thus stands at the intersection of Japan’s religious and political history.
The National Treasure “Kirime Kaishi”
Emperor Go-Toba’s Poetry Gathering
One of the most remarkable cultural stories associated with Kirime-oji is the “Kirime Kaishi,” a collection of poetry papers designated as a National Treasure of Japan.
In 1200, Emperor Go-Toba stopped at Kirime-oji during a Kumano pilgrimage. While staying there, he held a poetry gathering with members of his entourage. Eleven participants wrote Japanese waka poems on sheets of decorated paper known as kaishi.
These original poetry papers are now preserved at Nishi Hongwan-ji Temple in Kyoto and are designated as a National Treasure. A reproduction in scroll form is also associated with Kirime-oji, helping visitors appreciate the cultural atmosphere of the period.
The Kirime Kaishi demonstrates that medieval Kumano pilgrimages were about more than religious devotion. They also provided opportunities for poetry, literature, art, and aristocratic cultural exchange.
A Sacred Natural Landscape
The 300-Year-Old Portuguese Laurel Tree
One of the most impressive features of the shrine grounds is the enormous Portuguese laurel tree, designated as a Natural Monument by Wakayama Prefecture.
The tree has a trunk circumference of approximately 4 meters and stands about 16 meters tall. It is estimated to be more than 300 years old.
Its enormous branches and enduring presence provide a striking reminder of the passage of time. Local tradition regards the tree as sacred, and it has long been associated with vitality and spiritual protection.
Standing beneath this ancient tree and looking up through its branches offers a peaceful opportunity to appreciate the close connection between nature and religious belief that has characterized the Kumano region for centuries.
The Strange Legend of Kinako Powder
An Unusual Kumano Pilgrimage Tradition
Kirime-oji is also associated with a fascinating local legend known as the “Kinako Legend.” Kinako is roasted soybean flour commonly used in traditional Japanese sweets.
According to the legend, a deity associated with Kirime was once banished to the mountains after committing an offense. From there, the deity began causing trouble for pilgrims returning from their Kumano pilgrimage.
Kumano Gongen is said to have consulted the deity Inari and reached an agreement that people who covered their faces with kinako powder would not be harmed.
As a result, pilgrims supposedly began applying kinako to their foreheads and cheeks when passing Kirime-oji.
Although the story may sound unusual to modern visitors, historical records indicate that this practice was actually known in the medieval period. The “Kumano Pilgrimage Diary” of 1427 describes pilgrims applying kinako to their faces before passing the shrine.
This remarkable tradition provides a fascinating glimpse into the supernatural beliefs, rituals, and everyday customs that developed around the medieval Kumano pilgrimage.
Destruction and Reconstruction
A Shrine That Survived the Turmoil of War
Kirime-oji suffered significant damage during the military conflicts of 1585, when its shrine buildings and records were reportedly destroyed by fire.
According to tradition, a Buddhist nun subsequently played an important role in rebuilding the shrine, reportedly completing the reconstruction in just seven months. The place name Myohosan Amayashiki, located across the Kumano Kodo from the shrine, is believed to preserve a connection with this history.
During the Edo period, the shrine received support from Tokugawa Yorinobu, lord of the Kishu Domain. Offerings such as votive plaques and ceremonial doors were donated, and the shrine buildings were reconstructed in 1686.
The present worship hall was rebuilt in 1908. Its traditional appearance and surrounding forest continue to convey the long history of the shrine.
Walking the Kumano Kodo
A Quiet Pilgrimage Route
The area surrounding Kirime-oji retains much of the peaceful atmosphere associated with the historic Kumano Kodo. Visitors can walk through wooded sections of the route while enjoying traditional rural scenery, including fields and quiet countryside landscapes.
For modern travelers, walking the Kumano Kodo provides a unique opportunity to experience the landscape at a slower pace. Rather than simply traveling from one tourist attraction to another, visitors can follow the same paths once used by pilgrims centuries ago.
The peaceful forest around Kirime-oji is especially suitable for travelers interested in Japanese history, spirituality, traditional culture, and nature.
Access
By Train
Kirime-oji is approximately a 15-minute walk from Kirime Station on the JR Kisei Main Line, also known as the Kinokuni Line.
The walk from the station passes through the peaceful countryside of Inami Town, allowing visitors to enjoy the local landscape before reaching the historic shrine.
A Place Where History and Faith Live On
Kirime-oji is a remarkable historic site where the religious traditions, cultural history, and natural beauty of the Kumano region come together.
Its status as one of the Five Great Oji shrines, its connection with the National Treasure Kirime Kaishi, its association with Taira no Kiyomori, and the mysterious legend of kinako all reveal different aspects of its fascinating past.
Surrounded by a peaceful forest and an ancient sacred tree, the shrine offers visitors a chance to imagine the medieval pilgrims who once traveled this same route toward Kumano.
For travelers exploring the Kumano Kodo, Kirime-oji is more than a historic shrine. It is a place where ancient pilgrimage traditions, Japanese literature, legends, nature, and spiritual culture continue to meet.