What Is the Choishimichi?
A Historic Route to the Sacred Mountain of Koyasan
The Choishimichi begins at Jison-in Temple, on the southern side of the Kinokawa River, and continues for approximately 22 kilometers to Danjogaran, the central temple complex of Koyasan.
For centuries, this route served as the traditional main approach to Koyasan. Unlike an ordinary mountain trail, however, the route is marked by distinctive stone pillars known as choishi.
Stone Pillars Marking the Way
A choishi is a stone marker traditionally placed at intervals of approximately one cho, an old Japanese unit of distance equivalent to about 109 meters.
The stone pillars have a shape reminiscent of a gorinto, a traditional five-element Buddhist monument. There are 180 choishi between Jison-in and the Konpon Daito at Danjogaran, followed by another 36 markers toward Okunoin. Together, these make a total of 216 stone markers.
For pilgrims, the markers provided practical guidance through the mountains while also symbolizing the sacred nature of their journey.
The Religious Meaning of the Choishi
More Than Simple Distance Markers
The choishi were not merely signs showing how far travelers had walked. Many of them bear Sanskrit Buddhist characters, known as bonji, as well as the names of people who contributed to their construction.
Each stone was regarded as representing a Buddhist deity or sacred presence. Historical pilgrims are said to have paused at the stone markers to pray before continuing their journey.
For this reason, the Choishimichi can be understood not simply as a road through the mountains, but as a “path of prayer” in which the physical act of walking became part of a spiritual practice.
The History of the Stone Markers
From Wooden Stupas to Stone Pillars
The origins of the choishi can be traced back to the time of Kukai, who founded Koyasan in the early 9th century. Originally, wooden sotoba, or Buddhist memorial markers, were placed along the route.
Because wooden structures were vulnerable to rain, wind, and the passage of time, the markers were eventually replaced with stone pillars. Around 1265, during the Kamakura period, the project was undertaken under the leadership of Kakuban of Henjoko-in Temple.
The construction and installation of the stone markers took approximately two decades. By 1285, the present system of stone choishi had been completed.
Stone Markers That Have Survived for Centuries
Many of the choishi were made from granite quarried in the Mikage area of present-day Hyogo Prefecture.
Of the 216 markers that remain along the pilgrimage routes, approximately 179 are believed to retain their original form. Their survival for more than seven centuries is a remarkable testament to both the craftsmanship of medieval Japan and the determination of successive generations to preserve the sacred route.
A UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage Route
Part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range
The Choishimichi was inscribed in 2004 as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
The World Heritage property recognizes the exceptional cultural relationship between sacred mountains, religious sites, and pilgrimage routes in the Kii Peninsula. In 2016, the World Heritage area was expanded to include additional routes, such as Mitani-zaka and Kyodaizaka, further highlighting the importance of the Koyasan pilgrimage network.
What makes the Choishimichi especially meaningful is that it is not simply a preserved archaeological site. People still walk the route today, continuing a tradition of pilgrimage that has lasted for centuries.
The combination of ancient stone markers, forest landscapes, temples, and religious traditions makes the trail a remarkable example of a living cultural heritage.
The Experience of Walking the Choishimichi
A Historic Mountain Hike
Today, the Choishimichi is well maintained and is popular with hikers as well as visitors interested in Japanese history and religion.
Walking the entire route generally takes approximately 6 to 7 hours, depending on pace, weather, and rest stops. Visitors who do not have enough time or physical stamina for the entire trail can also choose shorter sections of the route.
The trail passes through peaceful forests dominated by tall Japanese cedar trees. The scenery changes beautifully with the seasons. Fresh green leaves appear in spring, cool forest shade provides relief in summer, autumn brings colorful foliage, and winter offers crisp air and a quiet atmosphere.
Highlights Along the Route
Jison-in Temple
Jison-in Temple marks the traditional starting point of the Choishimichi. The temple is also known as “Nyonin Koya,” or “Women’s Koyasan,” because of its historical connection with women who were unable to enter the sacred mountain itself during periods when Koyasan restricted female access.
Jison-in is also closely associated with the mother of Kukai. According to tradition, she lived in this area, giving the beginning of the pilgrimage route an especially personal connection to the founder of Koyasan.
Niutsuhime Shrine
Niutsuhime Shrine, also known as Niukanshofu Shrine, stands along the pilgrimage route and is associated with the traditional story of the establishment of Koyasan.
The shrine provides an opportunity to experience the connection between Shinto traditions and the sacred mountain of Koyasan, an important characteristic of Japan’s religious history.
Futatsu Torii and Historic Stones
Several historic landmarks can be found along the route, including the Futatsu Torii, or “Two Torii Gates,” as well as Kagamiishi and Kesagakeishi.
These stones and other features are associated with legends concerning Kukai and the history of Koyasan. Discovering them along the trail adds a sense of adventure and allows hikers to encounter stories from Japanese religious tradition while walking through the forest.
Daimon Gate
Near the end of the journey stands Daimon Gate, the imposing main entrance to Koyasan.
After spending hours walking through the mountains, the enormous gate provides a dramatic sense of arrival. Its monumental scale and traditional design make it one of the most impressive landmarks on the approach to the sacred mountain.
Konpon Daito
The journey ultimately reaches Konpon Daito at Danjogaran, one of the central structures of Koyasan and an important center of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism.
Its distinctive appearance and powerful atmosphere provide a fitting conclusion to the pilgrimage. After following the ancient stone markers through the forest, arriving at the sacred complex offers a strong sense of completion.
Legends of Kukai and the Choishimichi
A Path Connected with a Mother’s Love
One of the most touching traditions associated with the Choishimichi concerns Kukai and his mother.
According to legend, during the period when Koyasan was closed to women, Kukai repeatedly traveled along this route to visit his mother, who was living at Jison-in.
The name Kudoyama, where Jison-in is located, is traditionally explained through the idea that Kukai visited the mountain area nine times to see his mother. While this is a traditional interpretation rather than a confirmed historical explanation, the story has given the area a strong association with family bonds and devotion.
For this reason, the Choishimichi is not only a route of religious pilgrimage. It can also be viewed as a symbolic path connecting parent and child, earthly life and spiritual practice.
Tips for Walking the Trail
Prepare for a Mountain Trail
Although the Choishimichi is maintained as a historic pilgrimage route, it remains a mountain trail and should be approached with appropriate preparation.
Comfortable hiking shoes and suitable clothing are essential. Visitors should also carry sufficient water and food, particularly when walking the full route.
Mobile phone reception may be unavailable in some sections of the trail, so it is advisable to check the route in advance and make appropriate preparations before setting out.
Weather conditions in the mountains can also change quickly. Checking the forecast and allowing enough time to complete the hike safely are important considerations.
A Journey Through Japanese Spiritual History
The Koyasan Choishimichi is a historic pilgrimage route that has supported religious practice for more than 1,200 years.
Every stone marker represents a piece of the route’s long history, while the quiet forests preserve an atmosphere that allows modern visitors to imagine the pilgrims who traveled here centuries ago.
Walking the Choishimichi is therefore more than simply hiking. It is an opportunity to experience the relationship between nature, Buddhism, history, and Japanese spiritual culture through your own footsteps.
For international visitors to Koyasan, the trail offers a particularly rewarding way to experience the sacred mountain beyond its famous temples. By following the ancient choishi from Jison-in toward Koyasan, travelers can discover a landscape where history and faith continue to live side by side.
Take your time, follow the ancient stone markers, and experience the pilgrimage route as generations of travelers have done before you.