The History of Kawakami Sake
The Ito region, including present-day Katsuragi Town, was historically known as “Kawakami of the Kishu Domain”. The name referred to its location in the upper reaches of the Kinokawa River. Abundant water resources and high-quality rice suitable for brewing helped the sake industry flourish here.
Around 1841, during the Edo period, it is said that as many as 33 sake breweries stood along the former Yamato Kaido road between Kokawa and Hashimoto. Sixteen of these breweries were located within what is now Katsuragi Town.
Kawakami Sake was highly regarded throughout the Kishu Domain. Its popularity was so great that in Wakayama Castle town, sales of Kawakami Sake could influence the business of other breweries.
As Japan entered the modern era, however, the number of breweries gradually declined. Today, Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery is the sole brewery carrying on the traditional Kawakami Sake heritage, making it an especially valuable part of the region’s cultural history.
A Deep Connection with Mount Koya
Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery also has a strong historical connection with Mount Koya (Koya-san), one of Japan’s most important centers of Buddhist culture and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Monks at Mount Koya traditionally followed strict rules concerning alcohol. However, drinking a small amount of sake was historically permitted under certain circumstances, particularly as a way of enduring the severe cold of the mountain during religious training.
This medicinally or spiritually justified sake was known as “Hannyato,” a term that literally suggests “water of wisdom.” The expression became a traditional euphemism for sake among Buddhist communities.
Hatsuzakura’s signature sake, “Koyasan Hannyato,” carries on this fascinating connection between sake, Buddhism, and the history of Mount Koya. The brewery also continues the tradition of offering sake to Niutsuhime-no-Okami, a deity associated with the local area, demonstrating the close relationship between sake brewing and religious traditions in the region.
Historic Buildings Registered as Cultural Properties
The appeal of Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery extends beyond its sake. Several buildings along the former Yamato Kaido are recognized as Registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan, preserving the atmosphere of a traditional sake-producing town.
The Main Residence
The brewery’s main residence is a traditional two-story wooden merchant house built during the Taisho period (1912–1926). Its elegant lattice doors and traditional exterior provide a glimpse into the architectural style of historic Japanese merchant families.
Inside, visitors can see connected tatami rooms and beautifully designed tokonoma alcoves. The spacious interior reflects the refined lifestyle of a prosperous merchant household of the period.
The Brewing Warehouse
The brewing warehouse was constructed during the Meiji period (1868–1912). More than 30 meters long, this impressive wooden structure once served as an important space for the production of sake.
The warehouse preserves the atmosphere of traditional brewing and evokes the generations of brewers and craftsmen who worked here. Its scale and historic character make it an important part of the brewery’s cultural heritage.
The Storage Warehouse
The storage warehouse stands beside the brewing warehouse. Its long wooden structure contributes to a distinctive traditional landscape that recalls the period when sake brewing flourished throughout the region.
The combination of these historic buildings with the nearby Odai Irrigation Canal creates an atmospheric streetscape along the former highway, making the area particularly enjoyable for travelers interested in historic architecture and traditional Japanese culture.
Sake Made from Local Natural Resources
Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery places great importance on the natural resources of Katsuragi Town and its surrounding mountains.
For its premium sake, the brewery uses “Amano-mai,” a variety of sake rice grown in the Amano area at the foot of Mount Koya. The rice is carefully cultivated in the local environment before being used for brewing.
The brewery also uses high-quality groundwater flowing from the Izumi Mountains as its brewing water. Experienced master brewers and brewery workers continue to employ traditional hand-crafted techniques while making the most of the characteristics of the local rice and water.
Rather than focusing solely on strong or highly aromatic flavors, the brewery aims to create sake with a balanced, approachable taste that pairs naturally with Japanese home cooking and local cuisine.
In this sense, Hatsuzakura’s sake is more than a beverage. The rice, water, craftsmanship, and climate all combine to express the distinctive character of Katsuragi’s landscape and culture.
Brewery Tours and Sake Tasting
Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery offers brewery tours and sake tasting experiences by reservation. Tours are generally conducted for small groups, allowing visitors to explore the brewery at a relaxed pace and hear directly about its history and sake-making traditions.
Visitors can tour the historic brewery buildings, learn about traditional sake production, and discover how the brewing process has been passed down through generations. After the tour, guests can enjoy sake tasting in the atmosphere of the historic main residence.
The tasting experience may include Koyasan Hannyato, seasonal sake, and fruit-based liqueurs. Visitors may also have the opportunity to experience pairings with dishes made using local ingredients.
For visitors who do not drink alcohol, the brewery also offers its own amazake, a traditional Japanese sweet drink. Non-alcoholic amazake provides an enjoyable alternative and allows more visitors to experience the flavors associated with the brewery.
Local Flavors at the Brewery Shop
The on-site shop sells not only Japanese sake but also a selection of liqueurs made with Wakayama-grown plums, peaches, mandarins, and other local fruits.
The shop itself has a warm and distinctive atmosphere, incorporating wooden barrels and materials once used in sake production. Visitors can take their time browsing the products and discovering regional specialties.
These products make excellent souvenirs of a trip to Wakayama and are also a way to enjoy the flavors of Katsuragi Town after returning home.
Preserving Katsuragi’s Sake-Brewing Heritage
Once home to as many as 33 sake breweries, the Kawakami area was one of the important centers of sake production in the Kishu region. Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery is the last brewery preserving this historic tradition today.
Its appeal lies not only in the sake itself, but also in the historic buildings, traditional brewing techniques, beautiful streetscape, local natural resources, and longstanding connection with Mount Koya.
For international travelers, a visit to Hatsuzakura offers a unique opportunity to discover a side of Japanese culture that cannot be experienced simply by tasting sake in a restaurant. The brewery provides an insight into how Japanese sake, local communities, traditional architecture, nature, and religious culture have been connected for centuries.
When visiting Katsuragi Town, consider stopping at Hatsuzakura Sake Brewery to experience the history and distinctive flavors of Kishu Kawakami Sake and discover the traditions that have been carefully passed down for generations.