The Legend of Kobo Daishi and the Founding of Mount Koya
According to tradition, after returning to Japan from Tang China, where he had studied Esoteric Buddhism, Kobo Daishi Kukai searched for a suitable place to establish a center for Buddhist practice. It is said that Kariba Myojin, a local guardian deity, appeared and guided Kukai toward Mount Koya with two dogs, one white and one black.
Deeply grateful for this divine guidance, Kukai is said to have offered prayers to Niutsuhime Myojin and Kariba Myojin, the deities associated with the land, asking for their permission and protection as he established his religious center on the mountain.
In 819, Kukai invited the deities worshipped at Niutsuhime Shrine in Amano, at the foot of Mount Koya, to be enshrined on the mountain. This is traditionally regarded as the origin of Miyashiro Shrine as a sacred place dedicated to the guardian deities of Mount Koya.
This tradition illustrates that Mount Koya was not created simply as a Buddhist center. Rather, it was established with deep respect for the indigenous deities of Japan, reflecting the distinctive religious culture that developed around the mountain.
Miyashiro Shrine and the Tradition of Shinto-Buddhist Syncretism
Miyashiro Shrine serves as the guardian shrine of Mount Koya and is also formally known as Myojin Shrine. The present shrine buildings were reconstructed in 1594 and are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
Kukai’s religious vision did not regard Buddhism and the worship of Japanese deities as mutually exclusive. Instead, local deities could protect Buddhist teachings and sacred places, while Buddhist practices could coexist with traditional Japanese beliefs. This approach contributed to the development of Shinbutsu-shugo, a religious tradition that had a profound influence on Japanese history.
At Mount Koya, reverence for the guardian deities, including Niutsuhime Myojin and Koya Myojin, continues today. They are regarded as spiritual protectors who watch over Buddhist practitioners, pilgrims, and visitors to the mountain.
Three Shrines and Their Deities
Miyashiro Shrine consists of three principal shrine buildings, each dedicated to different deities. Together, they represent the diverse network of divine protectors associated with Mount Koya.
Ichinomiya: Niutsuhime Myojin
The first shrine, Ichinomiya, enshrines Niutsuhime Myojin, regarded as the guardian deity of the land around Mount Koya. As the indigenous deity associated with the area, Niutsuhime Myojin played an important role in the traditional story of Kukai’s establishment of his religious center here. Kehai Myojin is also enshrined at this shrine.
Ninomiya: Koya Myojin, or Kariba Myojin
The second shrine, Ninomiya, enshrines Koya Myojin, also known as Kariba Myojin. According to legend, this deity guided Kukai to Mount Koya with two dogs. As a guardian of the mountains and forests, Kariba Myojin is traditionally believed to protect those who enter the mountain for religious practice or pilgrimage. Itsukushima Myojin is also enshrined here.
Sosha: The General Shrine
The third shrine, known as Sosha, enshrines numerous deities, including the Twelve Princes and 120 attendant deities. It serves as a place where many of Mount Koya’s guardian deities are worshipped together and plays an important role within the religious traditions of the mountain.
Traditional Japanese Shrine Architecture
The shrine buildings at Miyashiro Shrine are also valuable examples of traditional Japanese architecture. Their elegant forms harmonize beautifully with the surrounding forest and contribute to the peaceful atmosphere of Danjo Garan.
Ichinomiya and Ninomiya are built in the Kasuga-zukuri architectural style, a form particularly associated with the main sanctuary buildings of Kasuga Taisha in Nara. Although relatively compact and simple in appearance, this style has an elegant and dignified character that emphasizes the sacred nature of the buildings.
Sosha features a distinctive architectural style known as Sangensha Nagaremisedana-zukuri. All three shrine buildings have traditional cypress-bark roofs, known as hiwada-buki, which give the structures a refined and harmonious appearance.
Surrounded by trees, the shrine buildings appear to emerge naturally from the forest. Their combination of traditional architecture, ancient religious traditions, and quiet woodland surroundings creates a particularly mysterious and sacred atmosphere.
Sanno-in: A Place of Worship for the Guardian Deities
Standing directly in front of Miyashiro Shrine is Sanno-in, an important building originally established as the worship hall for the shrine. The term “Sanno” refers to a guardian deity of the land, and Sanno-in has served as a place for worship and religious ceremonies for centuries.
The present building was reconstructed in 1845 and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Its architectural style is known as Iriomoya-zukuri with worship porches on both sides. The building measures approximately 21.3 meters across its front and 7.8 meters in depth, giving it an impressive presence despite its tranquil surroundings.
The elegant cypress-bark roof is one of its most distinctive features. Together with the surrounding shrine buildings and forest, Sanno-in provides visitors with an excellent opportunity to appreciate the traditional architecture preserved at Mount Koya.
Religious Ceremonies and Traditions That Continue Today
Sanno-in remains an active religious site where various ceremonies and traditional events are held throughout the year.
Among the important annual ceremonies are Rissei Ronji and Gosai Shoko. These traditional Buddhist gatherings are associated with the study and discussion of Buddhist teachings and provide opportunities for monks to deepen their understanding of Buddhist doctrine.
On the 16th day of every month, a monthly religious ceremony known as Tsukinami Monto and Monko Hoye is also held. This ceremony expresses gratitude and devotion toward the guardian deities of Mount Koya and represents an important continuation of the mountain’s tradition of honoring both Buddhist teachings and indigenous Japanese deities.
A Symbol of Harmony Between Shinto and Buddhism
Sanno-in and Miyashiro Shrine are among the places at Mount Koya where the historical relationship between Shinto and Buddhism can be experienced most clearly. For centuries, these two religious traditions influenced one another and developed side by side in Japan. The sacred area around Sanno-in and Miyashiro Shrine preserves a remarkable expression of this shared religious history.
The tradition surrounding Kobo Daishi teaches that the Buddhist center on Mount Koya was established with the protection and consent of the local deities. This idea became an important part of the spiritual identity of the mountain. The deities enshrined at Miyashiro Shrine and the ceremonies conducted at Sanno-in continue to reflect this tradition today.
A Must-See Sacred Site at Danjo Garan
When visiting Danjo Garan, many travelers naturally focus on famous landmarks such as the Kondo and Konpon Daito. However, a visit to Sanno-in and Miyashiro Shrine offers a deeper understanding of the religious history behind Mount Koya.
Here, visitors can discover the legends surrounding Kobo Daishi, learn about the guardian deities of the mountain, admire traditional Japanese shrine architecture, and experience the unique spiritual culture created through the interaction of Shinto and Buddhism.
For anyone interested in the history, architecture, religion, and cultural heritage of Japan, Sanno-in and Miyashiro Shrine are well worth including in a visit to Mount Koya. The quiet sacred buildings surrounded by ancient trees provide a peaceful setting in which to appreciate the deep history and distinctive spirituality of this extraordinary mountain sanctuary.