The Role of Kiiji in the Kumano Pilgrimage
From the Heian period (794–1185) through the medieval era, the pilgrimage to Kumano, known as Kumano Mōde, became an important religious tradition. Kiiji was one of the major routes used by pilgrims, particularly members of the imperial family and aristocracy from Kyoto.
Many early pilgrims traveled by boat down the Yodo River and then continued on foot from the Osaka area toward Kumano. Since walking was the principal means of travel, the journey was physically demanding and could take many days or even weeks.
Along the route were numerous small sacred sites known as the Kumano Kujūku Ōji, or the “Ninety-Nine Prince Shrines.” These shrines served as places of worship and rest for pilgrims. Travelers would stop at the Oji shrines to pray before continuing their journey toward the sacred shrines of Kumano.
The hardships of crossing mountains, rivers, and steep paths were themselves considered part of the spiritual experience. Enduring the difficult journey was regarded as an act of devotion and purification, allowing pilgrims to deepen their connection with the sacred world of Kumano.
The Route and Its Natural Landscapes
Kiiji passes through a remarkably varied landscape. From Osaka toward Wakayama, the route crosses the Izumi Mountains and surrounding hills. Once entering the historic province of Kii, travelers encounter major rivers such as the Kino River, Arida River, and Hidaka River.
Ono-yama Pass was an important point along the route. Crossing the pass marked the transition into the former Kii Province and opened the way toward the landscapes of Wakayama.
As the route continues south, the broad plains around Wakayama gradually give way to the distinctive terrain of the Kii Peninsula, where mountains and the Pacific coast often lie surprisingly close together.
A Landscape Shaped by a Warm Climate
The Kii Peninsula enjoys a relatively warm climate influenced by the surrounding ocean. This environment has supported a rich variety of agriculture and fishing traditions. Mandarin oranges and other citrus fruits, as well as abundant seafood, are among the local products for which Wakayama is well known.
Walking Kiiji therefore offers more than a journey through history. Travelers can also experience the landscapes, agricultural traditions, coastal scenery, and local foods that have supported communities along the route for generations.
Historic Sites and Cultural Treasures Along the Way
One of the great attractions of Kiiji is the variety of historic sites and cultural landmarks found along the route. Around Wakayama City, visitors can encounter important religious sites such as Hinokuma Shrine and Kunikakasu Shrine, collectively known as Hinokuma Jingu, as well as the historic Buddhist temple Kimiidera.
Further south, travelers can visit historic temples such as Dojoji Temple, one of Wakayama’s best-known temples and a place closely associated with traditional Japanese legends and performing arts.
Several mountain passes and scenic sections of the trail are also particularly memorable. Fujishiro-zaka, Ito-ga Pass, and Kase-ga Pass have been celebrated in Japanese poetry and literature for centuries. Walking these paths today allows visitors to experience, in their own way, the beauty and physical challenges that earlier travelers encountered.
How Kiiji Changed Over the Centuries
From the medieval period onward, the people traveling to Kumano gradually expanded beyond the aristocracy to include warriors, merchants, farmers, and ordinary people. As pilgrimage became more widespread, Kiiji took on a broader role within Japan’s religious culture.
The route was also used by pilgrims traveling to other important Buddhist sites, including destinations associated with the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a historic pilgrimage to 33 temples dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion.
With the development of modern roads and transportation networks, many sections of the original route were eventually incorporated into paved roads or local streets. Nevertheless, some sections still retain their traditional appearance, including old mountain paths, stone-paved sections, historic settlements, and ancient passes.
Preserving Kiiji as a Cultural Heritage
The historical importance of Kiiji has been officially recognized in Japan. In 1978, the route was selected by the Agency for Cultural Affairs as one of Japan’s “100 Historic Roads”, a designation recognizing important historic routes throughout the country.
Research, preservation, and maintenance projects have continued since then. In particularly well-preserved sections, visitors can still follow paths that closely resemble the routes used by pilgrims centuries ago.
Some sections, including Fujishiro-zaka and Ito-ga Pass, have also received historic-site protection. These efforts help preserve Kiiji not simply as an old road, but as a valuable cultural heritage site that conveys the history of Japanese pilgrimage, transportation, and regional life.
Experiencing Kiiji Today
Today, Kiiji is an appealing destination for travelers who enjoy hiking, history, nature, and cultural exploration. Walking the entire route requires considerable time, but visitors can easily experience its character by exploring individual sections.
Quiet mountain paths, open views toward the sea, traditional villages, historic shrines, and Buddhist temples each reveal a different aspect of the route. Rather than simply traveling from one destination to another, walking Kiiji provides an opportunity to slow down and appreciate the landscape in much the same way earlier travelers did.
Walking in the Footsteps of Ancient Pilgrims
For international visitors, Kiiji offers a unique way to understand the spiritual culture of the Kii Peninsula. The journey is not only about reaching a sacred destination; the journey itself is an important part of the experience.
As you walk through forests, over historic mountain passes, and alongside rural communities, it is possible to imagine the countless pilgrims who traveled these same landscapes hundreds of years ago. The changing scenery also reveals how closely Japanese religious traditions have been connected with mountains, forests, rivers, and the sea.
A Historic Trail Connecting Nature, Faith, and Culture
Kiiji is an important historic route that preserves the story of Kumano pilgrimage and the cultural development of the Kii Peninsula. Its paths connect ancient places of worship with mountains, rivers, villages, and coastal landscapes, creating a journey in which history, nature, and spirituality are closely intertwined.
Following the route today offers travelers the chance to experience more than beautiful scenery. By walking along the same landscapes that once carried pilgrims toward Kumano, visitors can gain a deeper appreciation of the beliefs, hardships, hopes, and traditions that shaped this remarkable part of Japan.
For anyone interested in the Kumano Kodo and Japan’s traditional pilgrimage culture, Kiiji is a fascinating historic trail where the past remains closely connected to the landscapes of the present.