A Temple Rebuilt After a Devastating Tsunami
The Great Hoei Earthquake of 1707
Muryo-ji was not originally located at its present site. The temple once stood in the Fukuro district, a small inlet along the western coast of Kushimoto. Because of its coastal location, the area had long been vulnerable to devastating tsunamis.
In 1707, the Hoei Earthquake, one of the largest earthquakes in Japanese history, struck the region. A massive tsunami followed, completely washing away the main hall of Muryo-ji. Historical accounts indicate that tsunami waves reaching approximately 5 to 6 meters high struck Kushimoto, causing enormous damage throughout the area.
A Remarkable Reconstruction
Rebuilding the temple was far from easy. Even after reconstruction efforts began, buildings were repeatedly exposed to the harsh coastal environment, including strong winds, rain, and salt damage. The temple therefore faced a long period of hardship.
A Zen monk named Bunpo Gukai eventually took on the mission of rebuilding Muryo-ji. After years of effort, he succeeded in reconstructing the main hall at the temple’s present location in 1786, 79 years after the great tsunami.
The rebuilding of Muryo-ji was more than simply the construction of a new temple. It became a symbol of the faith, perseverance, and hope of the local community.
Masterpieces by Maruyama Okyo and Nagasawa Rosetsu
A Promise Made in Kyoto
One of the main reasons Muryo-ji is known throughout Japan is its extraordinary collection of painted sliding doors and wall paintings by Maruyama Okyo and Nagasawa Rosetsu.
When Bunpo Gukai was training at Tofuku-ji Temple in Kyoto as a young monk, he became close friends with Maruyama Okyo, who would later establish the influential Maruyama school of painting. According to tradition, the two made a promise that if Gukai ever succeeded in rebuilding his temple, Okyo would create paintings for it.
When Muryo-ji was finally rebuilt, Gukai traveled to Kyoto and asked Okyo to create paintings for the temple’s new main hall. As a celebratory gift, Okyo produced 12 panels of decorative paintings. However, because of his age and busy schedule, Okyo was unable to travel to the Kii Peninsula himself.
Instead, he entrusted the project to his talented disciple, Nagasawa Rosetsu, and sent him to Kushimoto.
Rosetsu’s Ten Months in Kushimoto
Rosetsu was deeply impressed by Kushimoto’s mild climate, dramatic natural scenery, and welcoming local people. Rather than making only a brief visit, he stayed in the area for approximately ten months.
During his stay, he created a remarkable series of bold and imaginative paintings. His works inherited the realistic techniques associated with Okyo, while also displaying his own unconventional imagination and freedom of expression.
Among the most famous works is the “Dragon and Tiger” painting, designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. The powerful expression of the tiger and the dynamic movement of the dragon create an unforgettable impression.
Rosetsu is often described as a painter of the “eccentric” or “奇想” school of Japanese art, and the paintings preserved at Muryo-ji provide an excellent opportunity to appreciate his distinctive artistic personality.
Other important works associated with the temple include “Children at Play,” “Cranes,” and “Roses.” Rosetsu is said to have produced approximately 270 works during his stay in the Kii region, making this period one of the most important chapters in his artistic career.
The Kushimoto Okyo Rosetsu Art Museum
“Japan’s Smallest Art Museum”
The Kushimoto Okyo Rosetsu Art Museum was established within the grounds of Muryo-ji in 1961. It was built with the cooperation of local residents to preserve the temple’s valuable artistic treasures and pass them on to future generations.
The museum is sometimes described as “the smallest art museum in Japan.” Despite its modest size, however, its collection is remarkably rich. Visitors can see the painted screens of Okyo and Rosetsu as well as paintings, calligraphy, and other works dating from the Muromachi and Edo periods.
The collection also includes works associated with celebrated artists such as Ito Jakuchu, Kano Tanyu, Hakuin, and Kano Sansetsu. In addition, archaeological materials excavated from the local Kasajima Site are displayed, allowing visitors to explore Kushimoto’s history from both artistic and archaeological perspectives.
Important Cultural Property Paintings
Particularly noteworthy are the 55 painted panels designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
Among them are Okyo’s “Immortals on Waves,” “Landscape,” and “Cranes”, as well as Rosetsu’s “Dragon and Tiger” and “Children Playing Music, Go, Calligraphy and Painting.” These works are considered exceptionally valuable examples of Japanese painting.
Because of their delicate condition, the original works are carefully preserved in a specially controlled storage area and are displayed to visitors only when conditions permit. On humid or rainy days, some works may not be available for viewing. This careful preservation reflects the importance placed on protecting these irreplaceable treasures for future generations.
The Quiet Atmosphere of a Zen Temple
A Peaceful Place to Slow Down
The appeal of Muryo-ji extends well beyond its works of art. The temple grounds are filled with the quiet atmosphere characteristic of a Zen temple, offering visitors a chance to slow down and enjoy a moment of calm.
After passing through the main gate, visitors are welcomed by a magnificent phoenix tree and stone sculptures. The main hall, rebuilt in 1786, has a dignified appearance that reflects the temple’s long history.
The grounds also include a Kannon Hall, bell tower, Zen meditation hall, and Jiko Ossuary. Together, these buildings and spaces create an environment where visitors can experience the peaceful character of a traditional Buddhist temple.
The meditation hall is particularly evocative. Even for visitors unfamiliar with Zen Buddhism, its quiet and solemn atmosphere offers an opportunity to step away from the noise and distractions of everyday life.
Why Muryo-ji Is Known as “Rosetsu-dera”
Muryo-ji is also affectionately known as “Rosetsu-dera,” or the Temple of Rosetsu, because of its close connection with Nagasawa Rosetsu.
The paintings Rosetsu created during his stay in Kushimoto have been carefully protected by the local community for generations. Despite natural disasters, wars, and the passage of time, successive head priests and local residents worked together to preserve these precious cultural treasures.
In this sense, Muryo-ji and its museum are more than tourist attractions. They represent a remarkable example of a community working together to protect its cultural heritage and pass its history from one generation to the next.
Getting to Muryo-ji Temple
Muryo-ji is approximately a 7-minute walk from JR Kushimoto Station on the Kisei Main Line, also known as the Kinokuni Line. Its location in the center of Kushimoto makes it an easy place to visit while exploring the town.
Several of Kushimoto’s most famous attractions are also nearby, including Cape Shionomisaki, Kushimoto Marine Park, and Hashigui-iwa Rocks. Combining these destinations allows visitors to experience the natural landscapes, history, and culture of Kushimoto in a single journey.
A Unique Destination Where Art and History Meet
Muryo-ji Temple and the Kushimoto Okyo Rosetsu Art Museum are special places where history, faith, local community, and artistic creativity come together.
The story of the temple’s reconstruction after the devastating tsunami, the friendship between Bunpo Gukai and Maruyama Okyo, and the extraordinary works created by Nagasawa Rosetsu all contribute to the unique character of this historic site.
For visitors, seeing Edo-period masterpieces preserved within a quiet Zen temple offers an experience that is difficult to find elsewhere. The combination of traditional Japanese art and the tranquil atmosphere of the temple provides a deeper understanding of the cultural heritage of Kushimoto.
When visiting Kushimoto, be sure to make time for Muryo-ji. Discover the fascinating world of Okyo and Rosetsu, admire the temple’s historic surroundings, and experience the cultural heritage that local people have worked for generations to protect.